REDBIRD CENTER THWART

Darren · Post by **Darren** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 8:32 pm

HI!

I just finished installing the inwales on my 17' 6" Redbird and I am wondering what the length of the center thwart should be. The current width of the center of the canoe is 33.5" and I don't see the recomended width in the plans. Do you think I should leave it at 33.5" or spread it a little to say 34 or 35"?

Also I am interested in making a carved yoke for the center thwart and was curious if there are any sites with plans or tips available online for this?

Thanks!
Darren

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 8:44 pm

Hi Darren,

The info I have shows the gunwale beam as being 32.25".
This link should show you how to carve a yoke: Oops, the link doesn't work anymore so this is a link to where I found it: http://www.aracnet.com/~ncglad/canoe/canoemain.htm click on "Final Construction". If you can't get the info you need, I could email you what I have.

Why is everyone building Redbirds this year?
Glen.

Dean in Eureka, CA · Post by **Dean in Eureka, CA** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 11:34 pm

Glen Smith wrote:Why is everyone building Redbirds this year?

Because it's the best canoe on the planet.

KARKAUAI · Post by **KARKAUAI** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 6:28 am

Ooooo, I can't wait to hear the replies to that one! I for one don't want to be in Hawaiian waters in one! Maybe as a funeral canoe. Kent

Darren · Post by **Darren** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 8:04 am

Thanks for the info Glen!

I could not get that link to show the details on the yoke so if you could send me anything you have on it would be greatly appreciated.
My email address is 502005@nbnet.nb.ca

Thanks again
Darren

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 8:44 am

Assuming the thwart is going in the center of the boat, the length should be equal to the distance between the gunwales when the boat is on the form. Measure the distance from one side of the center form to the other at the area of the first plank and that should be the length of the thwart. Unless of course you wish to change the design....

Juneaudave · Post by **Juneaudave** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:11 am

Why is everyone building Redbirds this year?

Interesting question...There does seem to be a lot of "Redbird talk" here. Did you look at the "Order" section of the site where it lists bestsellers? I see the Bob's, the Prospector, the Huron, and the Freedom on the top 10 list, but no Redbird.

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:14 am

If the center thwart is to be used for portaging, it should not be located in the center of the canoe. Its location can only be determined once the seats are installed so you can find the true balance point fo the canoe. The thwart should then be located slightly forward of the balance point so that when the canoe is on your shoulders, the bow lifts slighty higher than the stern providing a clear view of the trail ahead.

Dean in Eureka, CA · Post by **Dean in Eureka, CA** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 10:13 am

The Guy With The Outrigger wrote:Ooooo,...Maybe as a funeral canoe.

Good one Kent!

Juneaudave wrote:Why is everyone building Redbirds this year?
I see the Bob's, the Prospector, the Huron, and the Freedom on the top 10 list, but no Redbird.

It's because Redbird builders like to flap their lips, at least this one does. I was born in the year of the Rooster. Maybe I need to zip my lip, because Darren is trying to have a thread here and I'm just crosstalking. Sorry about that.

Rod Tait · Post by **Rod Tait** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 10:20 am

I agree with Glen on this one. Center the thwart so that the boat nicely balances. I do this by clamping the thwart in under the gunwales and hanging it from a strap hooked to the ceiling. The center will not be the length of the boat in half but somewhere else depending on seat placement. As for length, you can change the beam, but go with the distance of the sheer on the center form (0) as mentioned in another message.

As for carving your own, you can carve it yourself or buy a nice factory carved Ash, Cherry or Walnut thwart for almost the cost of the lumber if you carve it yourself. Of course my time is extra cost to the customer.

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 2:58 pm

Hi Darren,

Chris Glad repaired the link so it now works just fine: http://www.aracnet.com/~ncglad/canoe/yokedetail.htm

Jack in Stoughton · Post by **Jack in Stoughton** » Fri Jun 11, 2004 3:25 pm

I'm going to disagree with thwart palceemnt. The first canoe I built was Gilpatrick's 16" Laker. I put the yoke/thwart right in the center. In practice, the rear seat being closer to the end of the canoe than the front seat, the canoe carries with the front end slightly light. I rest my hands on the gunwales to keep it level. It carries just fine that way. If I want the bow a bit higher, such as climbing a hill, it's a very easy thing to do.

Rick · Post by **Rick** » Sat Jun 12, 2004 10:10 am

Jack, I'm going to disagree with your disagreement - IMO, the balance point should be checked with c-clamps first, because there may be more epoxy and fiberglass on one half of the canoe, or the wood may be lighter in one area, etc, shifting the balance from the mid-point.

I also like to have the canoe slightly lighter forward on a portage, and have the yoke facing the stern, with another thwart between stern seat and yoke. This gives some hand relief from constantly hanging onto the gunnels on a long portage and a better grip when needed. A little more weight, but worth it along with other uses.

Jeff in Pembroke · Post by **Jeff in Pembroke** » Wed Jun 23, 2004 1:13 pm

This posting is a bit late in the thread, but I thought I'd add my thoughts. I agree with Glen, Rod, and Rick that the centre thwart should be at the balance point of the canoe, which may or may not be at the centre of the hull. Whether you want the canoe to balance equally or sightly tilting up is a matter of preference. I've found some canoes that balance tilting up to be a real pain to portage on a steep downhill. One that balances evenly is easy to tilt up or down depending on the terrain. That's just a personal preference, though.
Once you've found the balance point you prefer, I would suggest you use either a bar clamp or a piece of wood as a spreader to adjust the width of the canoe at the Station 0 point to the dimensions specified by the plans. The hull might need to be pulled in or spread out 1/2" or so. The book Canoecraft describes using some measuring sticks to determine the width of the seats. You can then use the same technique to measure the width of the hull at the balance point and thus get a precise measure of the width of your carring yoke. The yoke, once installed, will hold the sheerline of the hull to the width of the original design.

Happy building,

Jeff

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Wed Jun 23, 2004 1:48 pm

To find the preferred balance point you can just clamp a piece of wood across the gunwales and adjust its position until you like the balance. However if you install a carved yoke, the part of the yoke that comes into contact with the back of your neck will be further back than if you are using a straight thwart. Thus, the yoke position will not be the same at the gunwales with a carved yoke as compared to a straight thwart to obtain the desired balance point. So it is best to check the balance using the yoke or thwart that will be installed.

The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

REDBIRD CENTER THWART

REDBIRD CENTER THWART

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centering thwart

Carved Yoke