Photo posting test

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Tue May 11, 2004 12:51 pm

Hi Tom,

In order to post a photo, it must be located on a website and the URL must end wih ".JPG" or ".TIF" might work also. I just had an album set up for me on someone else's site and I still have to test it.

When you are ready to post a photo you start by clicking on "Img" located above, then copy the photo URL, then click on "Img" again.

We have to get this new forum figured out.
Glen.

Kurt Loup · Post by **Kurt Loup** » Tue May 11, 2004 2:22 pm

Here's a test photo from my webpage.

Kurt

Rich in the Ozarks · Post by **Rich in the Ozarks** » Tue May 11, 2004 8:21 pm

Absolutely beautiful work guys! Rich

Rich in the Ozarks · Post by **Rich in the Ozarks** » Tue May 11, 2004 8:57 pm

http://home.att.net/~rnbarten/wsb/html/ ... 11038.html

Rich in the Ozarks · Post by **Rich in the Ozarks** » Tue May 11, 2004 9:00 pm

Glen, When the picture on my web site is loading it shows jpg but when done it ends in html. Is this why I can't get the actual picture to load. Just the link will load. Rich

Rich in the Ozarks · Post by **Rich in the Ozarks** » Tue May 11, 2004 9:12 pm

ok Glen how did you do that? Do I need another forum just for posting pictures? Thanks Rich

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Tue May 11, 2004 9:25 pm

Hi Rich, I got the picture from your website straight to here so I guess you aren't using the proper technique for photo posting. Here is how I do it: I type in the text I want then I go get the URL of the photo I want to post by doing a right-click, properties, highlight, copy, bla bla bla. You can do the URL part before starting the message if you want. OK, once I have the photo URL I click on the little box at the top of the "Post a reply" page that says "Img". This will place an opening link after your text. Then I right click and do "Copy" and the photo URL appears. Then I click on "Close Tags" which is also on the "Post a reply" page. Then I click on "Preview" to see if everything worked OK and if so then I click on "Submit".

Your turn now.

Dean in Eureka, CA · Post by **Dean in Eureka, CA** » Wed May 12, 2004 6:52 pm

Hi Glen,
I noticed that you signed your kayak. Just in front of the combing it has your signature and some writing underneath. I can make out the word handcrafted, but I can't make out what it says in French. How did you do that? It looks great!

One more question (four to be exact): I went ahead and got the epoxy resin for my stems, man they sure are proud of that stuff! I got the West System; 105 Resin, 206 Hardener (they had 205 Fast and 206 Slow, I got the slow because of the extended working time) and 403 Microfibers. I see that when I get to glassing, I'll be using a different hardener.

O.K., if I understand correctly, I am to coat all glue surfaces with unthickened epoxy; resin and hardener. Then coat just one side of each joint with thickened epoxy; resin and hardener mixed well with microfibers added. The liturature I have says to add enough microfibers to make the epoxy sag when held vertical. I did a small test and I was surprised at how much microfibers I had to add to get it to ticken up to even come close to not dripping. I have a small test section clamped up right now, but won't know the results until tomorrow. I stopped adding microfibers when it resembled honey, a bit on the cold side.

O.K. do I have all the steps for laminating correct? Were you surprised at the amount of microfibers needed the first time you used microfibers? Should I mix up both unthickened and thickened epoxy at the same time or mix up the thickened epoxy after I get all my surfaces coated with the unthickened epoxy? Do you color tint this stuff, because it is very white?

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Wed May 12, 2004 7:19 pm

Hi Dean, in French it says "Fait à la main" which means, yes you guessed it "Handcrafted". I wrote that text with Microsoft Word and printed it on plain paper then I signed it and ran it through the scanner and copied it on a piece of tracing paper that I taped to a sheet of plain paper to get it to go through the printer. I then cut out the "decal" and when glassing the deck I slopped some epoxy on the deck, applied the decal, put the fiberglass cloth on the deck then applied resin and squeegeed in the normal fashion. You have to look pretty close to see the edges of the decal.

I don't use 403 microfibers very much because I find that it doesn't thicken enough. Instead I use fumed silica and wood dust for color matching but also as a thickener. For laminating stems I apply unthickened epoxy until it will no longer soak into the wood. Then I wipe off the excess before applying the thickened epoxy. If I am using a slow hardener I will make a good sized batch and after coating all the parts I will thicken the remainder. If I use a faster hardener I make the thickened batch after doing the coating.

Once you have all the parts clamped together on the mold, clean up all of the squeezed out epoxy to minimize the stuff you will have to sand off later. Oh yes, when you assemble all of those laminations you will find that they are like trying to hold onto a slimey fish. I take a few small pieces of wood wrapped in plastic tape so they don't remain stuck to the epoxy and place a few on each side of the assembly and throw some clamps across them to keep the laminations lined up.

I hope this helps.
Glen.

Dean in Eureka, CA · Post by **Dean in Eureka, CA** » Wed May 12, 2004 8:26 pm

Thanks Glen,
That sounds so easy and it looks so great! You printed that on your computer, can you use color also or just black ink?

I see so far from my test glue up, I could have easily got away with the fast hardener. I let the pot life rating on the fast stuff scare me into getting the slow stuff. I wasn't thinking because I live in a very mild climate. :oops:
I also think I added too much of the microfibers. It does say to add just enough to bridge the gap so the epoxy doesn't run out. I assume that adding too much also weakens the joint.

Hey, that is a pretty good tip; mix one batch and thicken the remainder. :D

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Wed May 12, 2004 8:49 pm

Hi Dean, You can print things like that in any color you want but some colors and some inks are less fade resisitant and might not look good for too long in the sun. I printed a color label (violet) that I put on the decks of my "Minnie-Miss". You can see the label at this link: http://groups.msn.com/CanoesKayaks/minn ... PhotoID=95. I know, it looks black in the photo but believe me it is violet or purple or mauve or something like that.

When I use West epoxy I only use the 207 hardener. It is pricey but still cheaper than having two systems. Adding too much thickener of any kind can produce a weak joint especially if you skipped the coating step. The dry wood will absorb epoxy out of the thickened mixture leaving weakened thickeners in place. You should always coat all wooden parts prior to gluing them with epoxy to get a maximum strength joint.
Glen.

Dean in Eureka, CA · Post by **Dean in Eureka, CA** » Wed May 12, 2004 11:39 pm

I am going to use the 207 hardener when I start laying fiberglass. The guy at the marine store told me that the 205 or 206 was the way to go for laminating wood. Well, I guess he saw me comin'. :roll:

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu May 13, 2004 4:06 pm

How's this?

Dean in Eureka, CA · Post by **Dean in Eureka, CA** » Thu May 13, 2004 4:21 pm

Looks like a Juneau Dave Boat to me!

Congratulations to Glen, he wins the "First Popular Topic Award" on the new forum!

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu May 13, 2004 5:08 pm

For AOL users it looks like you can just upload .jpg files to your FTP space and then follow Glens instructions.

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