Spraying Varnish

KARKAUAI · Post by **KARKAUAI** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 7:52 pm

Hey, Glenn,
I've just figured out that my slow curing varnish won't be ready to sand till 24 hours after application. If I sand it the next evening after work and apply the next coat the next day, it'll take 20 days to put 5 coats inside and out. Newfound sent me this varnish because it was slow curing and would flow out better when applied with a brush. It's HMG's Coma Bernice Brightwork Varnish, and they said it works very well with MAS epoxy and has good UV protectants. If I get somebody to spray it for me (old forum posts scared me off from trying to spray it myself with HVLP sprayer), what would you recommend I use? One guy said the slow cure stuff I had would tie his shop up for too long, and wouldn't even consider spraying it for me.
Thanks,
Kent

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 8:24 pm

Hi Kent,

Sorry, I have absolutely no experience with spray equipment. Why can't you apply another coat after sanding instead of waiting another day? Afraid of the sanding dust getting on the fresh coat? Why not wet-sand? You can have it done in 10 days!

KARKAUAI · Post by **KARKAUAI** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 9:02 pm

Guess I'm just tryingto be realistic about the time I'll have in the evenings when I get home from work. Everytime I get in a hurry I regret it later.
Kent

Juneaudave · Post by **Juneaudave** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 9:40 pm

The first time you wet sand varnish, it takes an evening... the second time you wet sand it takes 2 hours... the third time you wet sand, it takes 1 hour...after that you can wet sand a hull by just looking at it :D

KARKAUAI · Post by **KARKAUAI** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 9:58 pm

Mahalo, Dave,
I guess I haven't had the first two experiences...I've been staring at it for over a year and nothing happens till I hitch up my britches and go to work. Have to admit, though, that when I finally get the kahunas to start something I've never done before, it usually goes easier than I anticipated.

Rick · Post by **Rick** » Thu Jul 08, 2004 7:51 am

I dunno about staring at the boat too long... I usually get double vision when I do that and sanding down two hulls, when there was only one previously, is turning out to be a lot of work.

:shock:

What is this life, if full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Jul 08, 2004 5:41 pm

I've used Coma Berenice for 2 canoes in a rather cool shop in Minnesota winters and haven't had any problems at all with it. I also use Mas epoxy. The stuff I have says "Coma Berenice Clear Super Spar Varnish" Don't know if that makes a difference. It flowed on nicely and had no problems with curing. Its spendy but I like the stuff.
Dave

KARKAUAI · Post by **KARKAUAI** » Thu Jul 08, 2004 10:49 pm

Thanks, Dave,
Is the Camo Berenice you're using also slow curing? I think I have a guy who'll spray on varnish for me, but he want's someting faster curing so he can put on 2-3 coats in a day.

sedges · Post by **sedges** » Fri Jul 09, 2004 6:17 pm

I really don't see the advantage of slow cure varnish. Keeping a wet edge to work from is not hard on a canoe. Using a good 3 inch brush that holds a lot varnish, you can cover a lot of area fast. A 16 foot tandem takes 30-40 mintues at most. I always varnish at the end of the day so there won't be movement around the shop to stir up dust. Can usually sand the next morning. If you have someone to help you turn the boat over you can varnish inside and then turn it over and do the outside. This would cut your 20 days to 10.

I use my boats hard so they don't keep a fine finish for long. I use a much cheaper varnish and just 3 coats out and 2 inside. Finishes have lasted for 6 years on some of my boats and still look good. I do refinish below the waterline more often, but leave the uppers part alone if they are looking OK.

KARKAUAI · Post by **KARKAUAI** » Fri Jul 09, 2004 8:33 pm

Thanks, Sedges,
I assume you're doing the inside first, then turning over and doing the outside. First, how do you turn it over without touching the gunwales or decks? Second, how do you support it bottom side up without setting it on the gunwales?
I was told by my supplier that the slow-cure would flow out better and there'd be less sanding and ultimately a better finished job...not true?
Can you recommend a high quality faster-cure varnish that will be compatible with MAS epoxy?

sedges · Post by **sedges** » Sun Jul 11, 2004 11:40 pm

I have been oiling trim, so turning boat over is no problem handling it by the gunwales

I have been using moderately priced spar varnishes for a long time. Currently using Bejamin Moore Impervo 440 Marine Spar varnish. I store my boats in the weather and it last 6 years or more and still looks good.

Get a real good brush, spend the money and clean it with brush cleaner, not mineral spirits, it will last forever. I am using a brush that was my fathers and is at least 40 years old.

Load up the brush with varnish, don't be shy about it. Apply it to a section. You will quickly learn how much area a brush load can cover and develop a pattern of applying the varnish to the hull. When the load in the brush starts to fade, stop, go back and feather what you just put on. Don't feather with a loaded brush and don't keep trying to apply varnish with a brush that is empty.

I start at an end a keep a wet edge along the keel. As i work my way down the first side I may jump across to the other side for a while if I think I am losing the wet adge on the keel.

KARKAUAI · Post by **KARKAUAI** » Mon Jul 12, 2004 2:25 pm

Mahalo, Sedges,
I'll give it a try....like everything else about this project, I spend as much time worrying about screwing it up as I do working on it.

The Bear Mountain Boat Shop