Seems like I'm spending most of my time in the garage lately, but this thing is looking like a boat! I was pretty worried that cutting the individualized strips for the bottom was going to take forever, but it's not as bad as I'd anticipated. The elastics are working well, but I did need a couple of strap clamps near the ends to keep the strips against the sides.
[IMG:800:676]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/z ... dafter.jpg[/img]
[IMG:553:598]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/z ... pstogo.jpg[/img]
8 strips to go!
Thanks for looking,
Kerry
16' Bob's special - progress!
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Peter Kotowych
- Posts: 145
- Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 8:10 pm
- Location: Midland, Ontario
Bob's Special
Kerry, I think you are right. It certainly does look like a boat!
It looks like you know what you are about.
Good job.
Pete
It looks like you know what you are about.
Good job.
Pete
I love wood!
Bob's Special
Kerry, looking good! Straps are good, nails are bad 
How are the bottom ends of your "elastics" tied down? And, do you feel that using the elastic and S hook at the top doesn't torque the new strip too much? (That is, it doesn't tend to lift the strip and seperate the joint?).
Ed..
How are the bottom ends of your "elastics" tied down? And, do you feel that using the elastic and S hook at the top doesn't torque the new strip too much? (That is, it doesn't tend to lift the strip and seperate the joint?).
Ed..
Ed Alger
The elastics loop all the way around the side and hook on either end of the plastic C hook, so there's no lifting at either end. Actually, I was pleased that there seems to be enough friction where the elastic passes over the edges of the top and bottom strips that I can slightly adjust the direction of the force applied. What I mean is, I try to have the part of the elastic that's on the inside of the boat less taught than the part that passes over the outside. This seems to allow me to maximize the force pulling the top strip into the 2nd to top strip, and also maintain enough downward force to keep the strip flat against the station molds, although as you can see I'm still using some L shaped jigs and clamps to keep things flat.eagler wrote:Straps are good, nails are bad How are the bottom ends of your "elastics" tied down? And, do you feel that using the elastic and S hook at the top doesn't torque the new strip too much? (That is, it doesn't tend to lift the strip and seperate the joint?).
As to nails, I haven't used any of those, but I did get mad at one point and popped in two or three strategically placed staples :embarassed
Thanks for the encouragement folks. Now if the weather will just cooperate for a while longer, I'd REALLY like to get the glassing done.
Question - if I glassed the outside and didn't sand it, and then glassed the inside, will I be able to get the hull back on the molds so that I can sand the outside in the spring?
Kerry
Kerry,
Is there a reason you want to put it back on the molds? Once its glassed inside and out, the hull will be rigid enough that the molds shouldn't be needed any longer. You could simply rest the hull across a pair of horses. You might want the station mold 0 in place just to keep the shape (the sides tend to curl inward), but other than that, I don't think the others are necessary.
It may also not fit properly, since you'll now have the thickness of the fiberglass cloth and the layers of resin applied.
...just my two cents.
Mike
Is there a reason you want to put it back on the molds? Once its glassed inside and out, the hull will be rigid enough that the molds shouldn't be needed any longer. You could simply rest the hull across a pair of horses. You might want the station mold 0 in place just to keep the shape (the sides tend to curl inward), but other than that, I don't think the others are necessary.
It may also not fit properly, since you'll now have the thickness of the fiberglass cloth and the layers of resin applied.
...just my two cents.
Mike
That's good to know Mike. This being my first boat, I had no idea as to just how solid the hull would be without the gunwales and thwart.mvettori wrote:Is there a reason you want to put it back on the molds? Once its glassed inside and out, the hull will be rigid enough that the molds shouldn't be needed any longer
Cheers,
Kerry
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Erik, Belgium
- Posts: 344
- Joined: Fri May 14, 2004 5:31 am
- Location: Gierle, Belgium
- Contact:
Kerry,
the wetted-out hull is storng enough without the stations, correct.
But don't expect the hull to keep its' exact shape for weeks or months to come, until gunwales are mounted. Therefore you need to place something to ensure the canoe's width remains the same (i.e. 2 woodstrips, with slight cutout, placed over left sheer and right sheer)
Erik, Belgium.
the wetted-out hull is storng enough without the stations, correct.
But don't expect the hull to keep its' exact shape for weeks or months to come, until gunwales are mounted. Therefore you need to place something to ensure the canoe's width remains the same (i.e. 2 woodstrips, with slight cutout, placed over left sheer and right sheer)
Erik, Belgium.
Are you guys putting keels on your Bob's?
Just curious because this looks like the boat for me. But I want to go keelless.
16 foot, mostly single person, sometimes two
Fishing sometimes and paddling in all kinds of conditions except heavy whitewater.
Just curious because this looks like the boat for me. But I want to go keelless.
16 foot, mostly single person, sometimes two
Fishing sometimes and paddling in all kinds of conditions except heavy whitewater.
All that we see or seem is but a dream within a dream. Poe
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Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
I'm gettin' there. Here's another shot after installing the stems, fairing and sanding.
[IMG:800:600]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/z ... 020809.jpg[/img]
I've since filled the gaps with epoxy and I'm giving it a few days to cure before I finish sanding. I'm assuming that the areas around the filled gaps which soaked up some epoxy will blend in with the rest once the glass is wetted out, right? Right?? :frightened
Kerry
[IMG:800:600]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/z ... 020809.jpg[/img]
I've since filled the gaps with epoxy and I'm giving it a few days to cure before I finish sanding. I'm assuming that the areas around the filled gaps which soaked up some epoxy will blend in with the rest once the glass is wetted out, right? Right?? :frightened
Kerry
Looking good Kerry.
It must be getting cold where you are, and I don't see any insulation. Do you already have your epoxy and fiberglass?
Two epoxies I can recommend are Industrial Formulators Cold Cure and System Three Silvertip. Both are thinner epoxies so they will spread easier which may be important if you are working in cooler temperatures. As well, the cold cure will work done to 5C. I used System Three's regular resin last winter and it worked out okay. At 12C it was very viscous and hard to spread (not recommended but I used it only for some butt joints). At 18C it worked out fine with no complaints. Maybe it's wetout wasn't perfect but definitely acceptable. It looks clear but you can see some glass flecks up close. Quite often the flecks are due to the fiberglass anyways, so I can't say whether the cooler temps was the culprit. Silvertip wets out easier so should be clearer.
Doug
It must be getting cold where you are, and I don't see any insulation. Do you already have your epoxy and fiberglass?
Two epoxies I can recommend are Industrial Formulators Cold Cure and System Three Silvertip. Both are thinner epoxies so they will spread easier which may be important if you are working in cooler temperatures. As well, the cold cure will work done to 5C. I used System Three's regular resin last winter and it worked out okay. At 12C it was very viscous and hard to spread (not recommended but I used it only for some butt joints). At 18C it worked out fine with no complaints. Maybe it's wetout wasn't perfect but definitely acceptable. It looks clear but you can see some glass flecks up close. Quite often the flecks are due to the fiberglass anyways, so I can't say whether the cooler temps was the culprit. Silvertip wets out easier so should be clearer.
Doug
Mike, I was wondering if you can comment on how your boat paddles? I'm considering a 16' bob's special too. I have a thread about it here:mvettori wrote:Kerry,
She's looking good. Nice job so far. I just put my 16' Bob in the water a few weeks ago. The destination makes the journey worthwhile. it won't be long before you got it in the water and getting all kinds of looks from passers by!
Enjoy it!
Mike in Collegeville
http://www.bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2 ... php?t=2238
How does it paddle solo? How many people (adults and/or kids) would you feel comfortable in your boat?
thanks
Doug
Hi Doug,
Yes, I've already purchased my epoxy. The garage is uninsulated, but it's attached to the house at the back wall and the master bedroom is over the garage so it stays a little warmer than outdoor temperature. Even with a couple of halogen lights it gets fairly warm in there. I'm hoping for a few warm days yet, but if they don't come I'll be leaving it until next spring. Some years it doesn't get really really cold here until well into November, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this is one of those years.
Kerry
Yes, I've already purchased my epoxy. The garage is uninsulated, but it's attached to the house at the back wall and the master bedroom is over the garage so it stays a little warmer than outdoor temperature. Even with a couple of halogen lights it gets fairly warm in there. I'm hoping for a few warm days yet, but if they don't come I'll be leaving it until next spring. Some years it doesn't get really really cold here until well into November, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this is one of those years.
Kerry