Making contoured seats

Ray_B · Post by **Ray_B** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 3:26 pm

Charles, I have a pair of Ed's seats not installed yet. If you'd like any dimensions or photos
I'd be happy to privide them.

I ordered the seats without cane.
Later,
Ray

Charles G. Clark, Jr. · Wed Jan 17, 2007 5:08 pm

I would appreciate some measurements to compare against. How thick are the rails?
Thanks.

Ray_B · Post by **Ray_B** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:02 pm

As you can see the thickness is not uniform.
The 1" is actually 31/32nd and the 3/4 is abt 1/64+
Anything else you need, give a shout.
Later,
Ray

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:30 pm

I must admit that I didn't think that a seat with that thickness and a 1" dip would really stand up to the abuse some paddlers dish out but now that I think about it, I haven't read any seat-busting horror stories. I guess I should rethink the contoured seat option for my next canoe, if & when I build another one.

paul · Post by **paul** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 9:40 pm

May i ask how wide the rails are?

Ray_B · Post by **Ray_B** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:01 am

Glen, Guess the Ash is pretty strong mat'l. Laying a straight edge across the rails and measuring to the bottom of the radius is a very uniform 1 1/8" if you’re interested.

Paul, the rails are 1.800 to 1.300 wide, again varies because of the sanding operation I'd guess. So if you sawed your stock to 1 5/16 (1.312) you'd have the same dimensions after sanding.

I made an error when I purchased these seats; I wanted to cane them using the traditional
cane, but the seats arrived with the grove milled for pre-woven cane and enough pre-woven cane and spline to finish the job. Not the fault of Ed's, my mistake all the way. He'd have been happy to send them without any milling if I'd asked.
Thinking maybe I'll set these aside and order the unmilled seats.

Later,
Ray

MrDave · Post by **MrDave** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 1:27 pm

Quick question regarding the laminated, contoured seats (to be filed away in case I am evr able to start my redbird :)). Do you think there'd be any benefit to sandwiching some fiberglass between a layer or two?

hoz · Post by **hoz** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 1:43 pm

I don't think so. I'd just set up a bending jig and laminate 4 1/4" pieces using epoxy glue.

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 2:35 pm

Welcome aboard Mr Dave. I don't think the glass will give any advantage either. Your best bet is to use a hardwood that has straight grain and growth circles very close together (tight grain).

paul · Post by **paul** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 3:46 pm

Ray_B wrote:Paul, the rails are 1.800 to 1.300 wide, again varies because of the sanding operation I'd guess. So if you sawed your stock to 1 5/16 (1.312) you'd have the same dimensions after sanding.

Ray,

Can you clarify further, I am a little confused on the dimensions. In looking at pictures it looks fairly uniform on the width. Is it widest on the actual seat portion and narrowing to 1.300 on the chord/rail that will eventually attach to a the hanger.

Paul

Ray_B · Post by **Ray_B** » Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:46 am

Greetings Paul, It's no wonder you're confused, my typing was incorrect.
But width is still going to be 1 5/16. While waiting for shop to warm up a tad I've taken another photo and remeasured again with Mitutoyo Digital Calipers and results are as photo shows.

My sincere apologies for not checking my typing.......brain cramp I'd guess.
If you need other info, give a shout and I promise to be more careful with the keyboard.

Later,
Ray

paul · Post by **paul** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 4:10 am

An indispensable help to figure my dimensions.
I appreciate the effort plus the pictures.
Thanks/Paul