The cloth shows
The cloth shows
We had everything ready to go resin, tools, cloth. We pre-coated the hull the day before, draped the cloth over the hull and began to spread the resin from the keel to the sheer, stem to stem. The places where the resin was poured out and where it drooled are perfect. The places where the resin was spread too, the cloth shows through. We noticed this immediately and saturated, squeegeed, rolled, brushed those areas but the cloth still shows. Even after several filler coats. What went wrong?
- Erik, Belgium
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- Joined: Fri May 14, 2004 5:31 am
- Location: Gierle, Belgium
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Did you wait long enough for the epoxy to soak into the cloth, and in the wood on areas
where you didn't poor epoxy over it ?
My guess is that you should have given it more time to soak in.
My experience with West System 105 resin/207 hardener is that, once the epoxy has been spread out (no longer in the pot), you should take your time. The epoxy will take a long time bedore it will start to set.
where you didn't poor epoxy over it ?
My guess is that you should have given it more time to soak in.
My experience with West System 105 resin/207 hardener is that, once the epoxy has been spread out (no longer in the pot), you should take your time. The epoxy will take a long time bedore it will start to set.
- Juneaudave
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 12:42 pm
- Location: Juneau, Alaska
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cloth showing through
I have had similar experiences over the years. :( With epoxy, you really do need to let the resin take it's time to soak into the wood thouroughly before removing excess. Many things can also contribute. Too little epoxy, too much epoxy so that the cloth floats to the top, too hot so that the epoxy sets up before full saturation, or too heavy a cloth such as 9 oz as in one post.
I have also accidently purchased cloth that was not compatible with the resin used. The cloth is treated with a coating (sizing) that may not dissolve in some epoxies. You need to talk to your supplier to make sure they are compatible.
I have also accidently purchased cloth that was not compatible with the resin used. The cloth is treated with a coating (sizing) that may not dissolve in some epoxies. You need to talk to your supplier to make sure they are compatible.
It's the cloth.
Thanks guys, I think I've found the problem. . I didn't use West's system. I thought I would be smart and save $50. I used resins and fabric from Raka.com. The epoxy had good reveiws and test results on web. But nothing said about the cloth. I was so focused on the resin and hardeners, (which did a fantastic job) I neglected my homework on the cloth. Also they shipped the cloth folded, not rolled. Talk about a lot of extra work!
Lesson learned.
It's still a great looking canoe and most people will never notice
Lesson learned.
It's still a great looking canoe and most people will never notice
You never said which cloth you used. (weight) I just got done using RAKA on my S&G and did not have any problems like you describe other than those I can can definately attribute yo poor technique and in experience. In fact the outer hull glassed beautifully no bubbles no floats , even lay out ect. now on the inner hull I had issues because of in-experience in how to do it and how to keep from pulling the cloth, ect. If I had gone on the bias I might have had better luck in places but in all cases I had good saturation and wet out, of the glass.
All Materials from Raka
Cloth was 6oz 60 inch wide (Yep it was folded not rolled, Rolled would have been nicer)
605 hardner - Slow (Fast would just have kicked too fast in this summer heat)
Used a squeegee for all layup work then tipped with a dry foam brush where needed for run clean up
All Materials from Raka
Cloth was 6oz 60 inch wide (Yep it was folded not rolled, Rolled would have been nicer)
605 hardner - Slow (Fast would just have kicked too fast in this summer heat)
Used a squeegee for all layup work then tipped with a dry foam brush where needed for run clean up
If you mixed a lot at once, put it on the hull, and tried to spread it out, the problem could be that it had begun to cure and was too thick (viscous) to soak into the cloth. I find that mixing small batches works best: two people are needed for epoxying, one who mixes about 6 oz at a time, and one who applies mixed epoxy to the boat. Both are kept busy. That way all the epoxy is freshly mixed when it's added, and has plenty of time to soak into the weave, and to release any air bubbles.
Raka products
There are many satisfied Raka customers as this forum will testify . I have used their epoxy and glass cloth on several canoes, and will continue to do so. The only product of theirs that I did not like was the 5 oz. high strength glass cloth. I would not recommend it to the beginner canoe builder. It is harder to wet-out ,and does not lay down as flat and smooth as the regular weave.
cloth type
I used Raka's 6oz, 60inch and mixed 6oz of resin at a time with two of us working the layup. I'm satisfied with the Resin and as far as the strength of the lay-up is concerned I'm sure it's adequate. I'm disappointed ( and perplexed) in the way the cloth absorbed the resin where we poured and it drooled but we couldn't get the cloth to take it where we spread it. Yes, the resin was warm, thin, slow hardener, temps dropping, and we let it set several hours. Followed their directions to the letter. Other than the cloth what else is there?
- Juneaudave
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 12:42 pm
- Location: Juneau, Alaska
- Contact:
- Erik, Belgium
- Posts: 344
- Joined: Fri May 14, 2004 5:31 am
- Location: Gierle, Belgium
- Contact:
hi,
just on small reaction: I wouldn't blame it on "not-being West System epoxy". Lot's of professional boatbuilders use Raka and MAS with 100% satisfaction. IMHO, West System is far too expensive. I 've used French clear coat epoxy and hardener now on the canoe, without ANY problem (hope it stays like this after some years).
I think you should have applied fresh epoxy directly on the cloth (I don't poor out the batch on the glass, but apply it on preferably with a roller.) Let it soak in long enough (30 to 40 minutes is what I take) before starting to squeegee.
Erik
just on small reaction: I wouldn't blame it on "not-being West System epoxy". Lot's of professional boatbuilders use Raka and MAS with 100% satisfaction. IMHO, West System is far too expensive. I 've used French clear coat epoxy and hardener now on the canoe, without ANY problem (hope it stays like this after some years).
I think you should have applied fresh epoxy directly on the cloth (I don't poor out the batch on the glass, but apply it on preferably with a roller.) Let it soak in long enough (30 to 40 minutes is what I take) before starting to squeegee.
Erik
Raka products
I'm not sure what went wrong. I also mix small batches of epoxy using a roller to wet out the cloth. The cloth should immediately go clear with the beauty of the wood showing through. I usually wait a full day then scrape or sand the small imperfections before applying the second coat. With Raka, I usually use about four coats to completely fill the weave. I must say that the West roller covers are the best I have ever used, but other brands work for me.