Sluggo, If you see a twist in the strongback, I would suggest you do what you can to make it flat and true. A twist in the strongback will cause a lot of grief when it comes time to true up the molds.
I know you've put in a lot of work to this point. I was in the same situation on my first kit as my strongback was actually the shipping crate for my strips. I went ahead and trued it up the best I could but it was miserable trying to get the molds true. On my second canoe, it burned the old strongback and built the Canoecraft version!
If I had to make a suggestion, buy another 3/4" panel and make a proper and true strongback as Canoecraft suggests. You'll save more time than the panel will cost.
Also note that the strongback doesn't have to be 16' for a 16' hull. A strongback 13' 10" is just the right length for 16' Prospector. (14' top panel) It's nice to have the extra room under the stem mold when shaping the stem and when it comes time to strip the shear.
At some later date, extensions can be added for longer hulls.
Ed...
levelling strongback
Thanks for the advice guys.
I think my main box beams are fine, I just need to remake the middle section. The beams themselves are not twisted, it's just that the middle section was loose so that when I joined the two halves, the two halves were not aligned properly. The strongback is very stiff and sturdy as it is, but the two halves are not aligned quite right.
As for the feet, I think cutting out a slot for the canoe craft feet will be okay and is a good ide. I'll just use my pull saw, which happens to be one of my most used tools these days. Besides, Patricks Dad was right on about the height. I have my strongback WAY too high. So I think I'll do the following:
1. make a new middle section
2. assemble the beams together on the floor and make sure they are joined tight and aligned
3. cut out two sections for feet and put a third foot in the middle
As well, although I haven't attached it yet, I already have a 12" wide plywood top to place on top of the boxbeam once it is finished and level.
I think my main box beams are fine, I just need to remake the middle section. The beams themselves are not twisted, it's just that the middle section was loose so that when I joined the two halves, the two halves were not aligned properly. The strongback is very stiff and sturdy as it is, but the two halves are not aligned quite right.
As for the feet, I think cutting out a slot for the canoe craft feet will be okay and is a good ide. I'll just use my pull saw, which happens to be one of my most used tools these days. Besides, Patricks Dad was right on about the height. I have my strongback WAY too high. So I think I'll do the following:
1. make a new middle section
2. assemble the beams together on the floor and make sure they are joined tight and aligned
3. cut out two sections for feet and put a third foot in the middle
As well, although I haven't attached it yet, I already have a 12" wide plywood top to place on top of the boxbeam once it is finished and level.
okay, I fixed the stongback tonight.
In the end, I just reassembled the three sections on the floor while level. The beam is very straight and solid now. I then cut out some of the underside of the beam and fit the canoecraft legs into the beam. I cut out the legs according to canoecraft and then remembered that my beam is a bit narrower. It was no big deal, I just cut slots in the legs to wrap around the sidewalls of the beam. I also lowered the strongback by a foot or more!
In the end, I just reassembled the three sections on the floor while level. The beam is very straight and solid now. I then cut out some of the underside of the beam and fit the canoecraft legs into the beam. I cut out the legs according to canoecraft and then remembered that my beam is a bit narrower. It was no big deal, I just cut slots in the legs to wrap around the sidewalls of the beam. I also lowered the strongback by a foot or more!