Does anyone out there have plans or a web site for a simple router jig to make for cutting bead and cove strips? I need to cut strips for my next project.
Thanks!
Router Jig for Bead & Cove Strips
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 9:07 pm
- Location: Buffalo, MN USA
Router Jig for Bead & Cove Strips
BuffaloDick
- Juneaudave
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 12:42 pm
- Location: Juneau, Alaska
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Check out John Michne's site. He has a good article. The key is to feed with the rotation of the bit instead of againt it like you normally do. http://www.michneboat.com/Builder's%20Corner.htm You can't go wrong following John's instructions.
- Juneaudave
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 12:42 pm
- Location: Juneau, Alaska
- Contact:
- Dean in Eureka, CA
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 10:23 am
- Location: Eureka, CA
Hi Dick,
I usd the Yellow Board Buddies for uniform results. :mrgreen:
I usd the Yellow Board Buddies for uniform results. :mrgreen:
Everything will be OK[img::]http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/images ... uryi3b.gif[/img]
Dean in Eureka, CA
Dean in Eureka, CA
cove&bead router setup
I also run the strip between the fence and bit, for the same reason as Jim D ... with the bit rotating the "wrong" way, sometimes called a "climbing cut"
I'm unsure about the safety concerns of the strip between bit&fence but isn't that a lot like ripping a board on a table saw?? .... board is between the blade and fence. If the fence and blade are not parallel or if you don't control the board or don't keep your hands a safe distance from the blade you can get into trouble, sometimes big trouble. Bit and fence being parallel on a router table is not an issue. Controlling the strip is done well with feather boards, board buddies and/or wooden springs and a pusher stick saves the fingers.
Regarding the climbing cut, if you set your feather boards with enough pressure to require a mild effort to push the strips through you'll not have a problem with "self feeding" and you'll ruin fewer strips due to splintered edges than if you do it the "right" way.
I'm unsure about the safety concerns of the strip between bit&fence but isn't that a lot like ripping a board on a table saw?? .... board is between the blade and fence. If the fence and blade are not parallel or if you don't control the board or don't keep your hands a safe distance from the blade you can get into trouble, sometimes big trouble. Bit and fence being parallel on a router table is not an issue. Controlling the strip is done well with feather boards, board buddies and/or wooden springs and a pusher stick saves the fingers.
Regarding the climbing cut, if you set your feather boards with enough pressure to require a mild effort to push the strips through you'll not have a problem with "self feeding" and you'll ruin fewer strips due to splintered edges than if you do it the "right" way.
I too ran my strips between the fence and bit. Here is a photo of my setup with the finger boards I made. A router table is essential, but a simple fench for the table would work as well as the one I made. The router table was built from plans by Woodsmith (I think it was the Shopnotes magazine), years ago.
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 9:07 pm
- Location: Buffalo, MN USA
Thank you everyone for all your help and input. I have seen a jig for cutting bead and cove with a jig that attached to the router base and had a slot about the same width and thickness as a strip. This unit was simple and very portable so you take the whole process outdoors if you wanted to. I had hoped that someone might have seen the same thing and could direct me to the website. I am in the process of designing a simple jig for this purpose and when I get it perfected I may have plans available. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
BuffaloDick