Router Jig for Bead & Cove Strips

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BuffaloDick
Posts: 21
Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 9:07 pm
Location: Buffalo, MN USA

Router Jig for Bead & Cove Strips

Post by BuffaloDick »

Does anyone out there have plans or a web site for a simple router jig to make for cutting bead and cove strips? I need to cut strips for my next project.
Thanks!
BuffaloDick
Colm
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Joined: Mon May 17, 2004 11:34 pm

Post by Colm »

I just used 2 finger boards clamped to the router table - one horizontal and one vertical. It worked fine for me.
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Juneaudave
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Location: Juneau, Alaska
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Post by Juneaudave »

Check out John Michne's site. He has a good article. The key is to feed with the rotation of the bit instead of againt it like you normally do. http://www.michneboat.com/Builder's%20Corner.htm You can't go wrong following John's instructions.
Jim D

Post by Jim D »

I bead and cove my strips different than John, in the fact that I run my strips BETWEEN the fence and the router bit.... This insures that all the strips are uniform in width!... I know others may disagree, because of safety reasons, but I have had no trouble!..
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Juneaudave
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Post by Juneaudave »

Jim..Could we see your set up? Are you routing with the rotation or agin?
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Dean in Eureka, CA
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Location: Eureka, CA

Post by Dean in Eureka, CA »

Hi Dick,
I usd the Yellow Board Buddies for uniform results. :mrgreen:
Everything will be OK[img::]http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/images ... uryi3b.gif[/img]

Dean in Eureka, CA
jcolten
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 12:12 pm

cove&bead router setup

Post by jcolten »

I also run the strip between the fence and bit, for the same reason as Jim D ... with the bit rotating the "wrong" way, sometimes called a "climbing cut"

I'm unsure about the safety concerns of the strip between bit&fence but isn't that a lot like ripping a board on a table saw?? .... board is between the blade and fence. If the fence and blade are not parallel or if you don't control the board or don't keep your hands a safe distance from the blade you can get into trouble, sometimes big trouble. Bit and fence being parallel on a router table is not an issue. Controlling the strip is done well with feather boards, board buddies and/or wooden springs and a pusher stick saves the fingers.

Regarding the climbing cut, if you set your feather boards with enough pressure to require a mild effort to push the strips through you'll not have a problem with "self feeding" and you'll ruin fewer strips due to splintered edges than if you do it the "right" way.
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Bassbug
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Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
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Post by Bassbug »

I too ran my strips between the fence and bit. Here is a photo of my setup with the finger boards I made. A router table is essential, but a simple fench for the table would work as well as the one I made. The router table was built from plans by Woodsmith (I think it was the Shopnotes magazine), years ago.

Image
BuffaloDick
Posts: 21
Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 9:07 pm
Location: Buffalo, MN USA

Post by BuffaloDick »

Thank you everyone for all your help and input. I have seen a jig for cutting bead and cove with a jig that attached to the router base and had a slot about the same width and thickness as a strip. This unit was simple and very portable so you take the whole process outdoors if you wanted to. I had hoped that someone might have seen the same thing and could direct me to the website. I am in the process of designing a simple jig for this purpose and when I get it perfected I may have plans available. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
BuffaloDick
Jim D

Post by Jim D »

Nice router set up Bassbug!!.... My rig is made from a kitchen sink cut out, not fancy, but it works!.. I run my strips against the cutter, it works also, no kick back. Thanks for posting a picture!!!
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