New member
New member
Hey, I just joined here, I also just ordered a set of Plans from Bear mountain boats, for the
16' 0" Canadien. Now going to start collecting materials, and hopefully start to build the strongback. I am new to building boats. Although I do have experience in fine woodworking, and should have most of the tools necessary to build this canoe.
Thanks
Will
16' 0" Canadien. Now going to start collecting materials, and hopefully start to build the strongback. I am new to building boats. Although I do have experience in fine woodworking, and should have most of the tools necessary to build this canoe.
Thanks
Will
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
Hey, thanks for the welcome. I haven't even got the plans yet, can't wait to get them, so Im not really sure what I need to start getting in materials. However I did just buy the book, "Canoe Craft" been reading that through so far. I have sent a email off to a local small mill, to see if he can supply me with cedar.
One question. I guess finised dimension for the Cedar is 3/4" thick?? Is it ok to use rought cedar or is machined surface much better to use? Since the local mill will supply me with rough cedar.
Thanks
One question. I guess finised dimension for the Cedar is 3/4" thick?? Is it ok to use rought cedar or is machined surface much better to use? Since the local mill will supply me with rough cedar.
Thanks
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
You can purchase rough lumber if you have access to a planer. Some builders have reported using rough lumber that wasn't "too rough" without having a planer and they did o.k.
If you purchase rough lumber and plane it yourself, you can just take it down to a smooth face on both sides even if it is a bit over 3/4" final thickness. Some strip suppliers make their strips 7/8".
If you route a cove & bead on the strips you will be losing 1/8" on the face width of the strips so strips that are 3/4" wide will actually cover a surface width of 5/8".
If you purchase rough lumber and plane it yourself, you can just take it down to a smooth face on both sides even if it is a bit over 3/4" final thickness. Some strip suppliers make their strips 7/8".
If you route a cove & bead on the strips you will be losing 1/8" on the face width of the strips so strips that are 3/4" wide will actually cover a surface width of 5/8".
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
You will need bits like these ones:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 46184&ap=1
Another possibility, if you are using 1/4" thick strips, is to get the new slightly larger radius bits ( 5/16" ) from MLCS. Being a bit oversize means the cove shoulders are less fragile and the strips may conform to tight bilge curves better. I haven't yet tried these new bits though.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... flute.html
I got my bits from here: http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=16505
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 46184&ap=1
Another possibility, if you are using 1/4" thick strips, is to get the new slightly larger radius bits ( 5/16" ) from MLCS. Being a bit oversize means the cove shoulders are less fragile and the strips may conform to tight bilge curves better. I haven't yet tried these new bits though.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... flute.html
I got my bits from here: http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=16505
ok I m a little confused now, if the final thickness of the strips is .75. is the .75 the width, and the thickness is .25, whats the final machined size of the strips.Another possibility, if you are using 1/4" thick strips, is to get the new slightly larger radius bits ( 5/16" ) from MLCS. Being a bit oversize means the cove shoulders are less fragile and the strips may conform to tight bilge curves better. I haven't yet tried these new bits though.
Thanks
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
You determine the final dimensions of the strips but the industry standard is 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide. However, some suppliers make their strips 1/4" thick and 7/8" wide. When I build a boat for my own use, I make my strips 3/16" thick but I still use the 1/8" radius router bits for the bead & cove. The width of my strips depends on the thickness of the lumber I purchase and plane. The strips are ripped off the edge of the boards so the strip width is equal to the lumber thickness.
I hope this is clearer now.
Edited: BTW, while waiting for your plans, you might want to have a look at John Michne's website: http://www.michneboat.com/ Click on "My web site" then on "Builder's Corner" and read it all. It is very informative.
I hope this is clearer now.
Edited: BTW, while waiting for your plans, you might want to have a look at John Michne's website: http://www.michneboat.com/ Click on "My web site" then on "Builder's Corner" and read it all. It is very informative.
Strip milling
Will, good to see you starting a new adventure!
Glen mentioned the 5/16" radius cutters available from MLCS. These cutters produce a shallow-er cove and produce a less fragile edge as Glen mentioned.
If the strips are milled to .275" rather thatn .250", the cove depth can be adjusted to leave about a .010" edge. This is where the 5/16" cutter gains its advantage. Then when the hull is faired, the joint disappears (almost!) and if care is taken in laying up the strips, little or no filling is needed.
Ed...
Glen mentioned the 5/16" radius cutters available from MLCS. These cutters produce a shallow-er cove and produce a less fragile edge as Glen mentioned.
If the strips are milled to .275" rather thatn .250", the cove depth can be adjusted to leave about a .010" edge. This is where the 5/16" cutter gains its advantage. Then when the hull is faired, the joint disappears (almost!) and if care is taken in laying up the strips, little or no filling is needed.
Ed...
Ed Alger
Ok, so lets say I buy some full dimension lumber being 1x6, I can slice that in half giving a .5x6 board, I can then rip that into say 5 strips 7/8 wide, I then further machine that down with a planer to 1/4 thick x 7/8 wide, then bead and cove it, further reducing the width down to 3/4. Does that make sense.
Thanks guys for the great help thus far.
Will
Thanks guys for the great help thus far.
Will
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois