Many years ago I theorizied that inlaying/overlaying a boat entirely with veneer would allow for infinite design possibilities and look really cool. Well here are the results of my "Endeavors". Pun intended. I don't think still images do them justice so I uploaded a video to Youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqHEXb-fbLo
Extreme Veneering
- Jeff in Farmington, MI
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2004 3:19 pm
- Location: Farmington, Michigan, USA
- Juneaudave
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 12:42 pm
- Location: Juneau, Alaska
- Contact:
Inside the cockpit, it looks like there are strips of wood. Did you build the entire hull with woodstrips the traditional way, them come back with the veneer over the top of the strips? Unless it is a trade secret, tell us the steps in making the hull.
I assume you fiberglassed over the veneer? How comfortable are you that the contact cement (assume from above venner is attached to wood strips) will hold the two together when subjected to weather changes, stress when using, etc.
I am very intrigued on the technique. Please give us more info.
Tom
I assume you fiberglassed over the veneer? How comfortable are you that the contact cement (assume from above venner is attached to wood strips) will hold the two together when subjected to weather changes, stress when using, etc.
I am very intrigued on the technique. Please give us more info.
Tom
The extra weight is considerable. But I attribute that to the magnets in the hatches as well as the glue and (hardwood) veneer. 25+ lbs over what the book specs for Endeavor. 68 lbs. Its not a big deal to me as I have to carry 50lbs of ballast when I'm day tripping without it loaded, just to sit it down on its lines. I only weight 140 and its a large volume boat.
Concerning the process. No big secret, but I did have to really think through the order of construction/assembly and change it from what the book specified. The hull is built as a strip built entity except I used 4mm okume ply. Hull is glassed inside and out 6oz. after the veneer application. I believe that to be a weight gain factor as well.
I am fairly confident of things holding together. Layered things are almost always stronger. The epoxy wetout surely filled any edges and minor gaps that I may have missed in gluing the veneer. Incidentally, when I was building, a mistake forced me to remove a 4" x 10" piece of veneer a day after it was glued on; it took my 4 hours to remove the piece and the residual glue. The stinky toxic contact cement is very strong and I've used it as a cabinet maker for 8 years and many more just around my studio/workshop for random stuff.
Despite all of this I do suffer from nightmares of DELAMINATION.
Concerning the process. No big secret, but I did have to really think through the order of construction/assembly and change it from what the book specified. The hull is built as a strip built entity except I used 4mm okume ply. Hull is glassed inside and out 6oz. after the veneer application. I believe that to be a weight gain factor as well.
I am fairly confident of things holding together. Layered things are almost always stronger. The epoxy wetout surely filled any edges and minor gaps that I may have missed in gluing the veneer. Incidentally, when I was building, a mistake forced me to remove a 4" x 10" piece of veneer a day after it was glued on; it took my 4 hours to remove the piece and the residual glue. The stinky toxic contact cement is very strong and I've used it as a cabinet maker for 8 years and many more just around my studio/workshop for random stuff.
Despite all of this I do suffer from nightmares of DELAMINATION.
bnarus,
I have a sticker on my computer that reminds me every day "He Who Makes No MIstakes Usually Ends Up Making Nothing At ALL". I think it came from a fortune cookie, but it keeps me motivated to try new things and not be discouraged by failure.
One last question, why didn't you use epoxy to adhere the veneer to the plywood, as you know it is bulletproof even when wet or in varying temps?
I have a sticker on my computer that reminds me every day "He Who Makes No MIstakes Usually Ends Up Making Nothing At ALL". I think it came from a fortune cookie, but it keeps me motivated to try new things and not be discouraged by failure.
One last question, why didn't you use epoxy to adhere the veneer to the plywood, as you know it is bulletproof even when wet or in varying temps?
The curing time and how to reliably "clamp" the pieces during the cure was the reason I didn't use epoxy. Working with compound curves and hundreds of pieces of veneer would make a vacuum a logistical nightmare. The smallest pieces of veneer were no bigger than 1 square inch and the biggest was 8" x 25". All with 3 to 8 sides. I started with the black stripes and then fit the rest in between those. Think of building a puzzle but you have to hand cut each piece to fit up against the piece you just put in.
My delamination fears probably aren't justified as the boats are epoxied, glassed and varnished with the 2 part Interlux Perfection Varnish. I've scooted them across the rocky shell strune beaches of Puget Sound and barely scratched the surface.
By the way, I have that quote in my collection as well.
My delamination fears probably aren't justified as the boats are epoxied, glassed and varnished with the 2 part Interlux Perfection Varnish. I've scooted them across the rocky shell strune beaches of Puget Sound and barely scratched the surface.
By the way, I have that quote in my collection as well.