I have built two canoes from the plans available on this site. The first was a Redbird design built 13 years ago, and the second built 10 years ago was a Prospector. Both were built exactly to plan except the Redbird was shortened to 12'. Lesson one: 12' is too short for a canoe. My buddy uses it as a tender for his sailboat and it works well for this purpose. The prospector has been stored under a tree and against a fence in my back yard on a stand off the ground, fully exposed to the elements for the past ten years.
If I recall correctly the instructions regarding gunwales was to not figerglass them to the hull so that they could be replaced down the road. I simply varnished mine. As well, instruction called for varnishing the epoxy of the hull inside and outside to protect from the sun. This worlked very well.
I used my prospector for a few years on whitewater rivers and really scratched up the bottom on rocks and gravel, but a recoat of varnish took care of that and brought the luster of the hull back to 'new build' condition.
By not fiberglassing the gunwals however, I found that mice and squirrels really like chewing off the varnish yet they did not touch the hull. It might have been the ash that they were going after, but at any rate, I would recommend that you coat them with WEST System epoxy, althoug refrain from epoxying them to the hull. This would still allow you to change the gunwals down the road, but perhpas give it a bit better protection.
I ended up taking a thumb plane to take down the gunwals by a 32 of an inch or so then revarnishing, but a better solution might be to apply some WEST system epoxy and top coat with varnish.
Other than those two lessons, I would vouch for this type of build whole heartedly.
lessons learned from 10 years ago gunwale varnishing
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Roger Conrad
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2010 4:37 pm
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Tim Eastman
- Posts: 245
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2005 12:40 pm
- Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, U.S.A.
Just a difference in opinion, but I've epoxied my gunnels to the hull for years.
This seals them and prevents moisture from getting inbetween the hull and gunnels. No more cracking and creeking while the canoe is in motion. To date I have'nt needed to replace any gunnels.
I've built 19 strippers and still have 9.
Just my two cents worth.
Jim
This seals them and prevents moisture from getting inbetween the hull and gunnels. No more cracking and creeking while the canoe is in motion. To date I have'nt needed to replace any gunnels.
I've built 19 strippers and still have 9.
Just my two cents worth.
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Just a suggestion for those who haven't tried applying epoxy to the gunnels decks yokes thwarts etc to seal the wood.
After the gunnels and decks are attached, thin the epoxy about 10 % with lacquer thinner, brush it on let it sit for about 10 minutes then scour it down dry with scouring pads. It will soak in better, and scouring it down will help seal any pores in wood. Should have a matte like finish. Then apply spar varnish of your choice.
My last two builds I haven't used screws to attach the gunnels except for the deck areas. Does require a lot of clamps but like canoes I don't think it is possible to have too many clamps
Denis
After the gunnels and decks are attached, thin the epoxy about 10 % with lacquer thinner, brush it on let it sit for about 10 minutes then scour it down dry with scouring pads. It will soak in better, and scouring it down will help seal any pores in wood. Should have a matte like finish. Then apply spar varnish of your choice.
My last two builds I haven't used screws to attach the gunnels except for the deck areas. Does require a lot of clamps but like canoes I don't think it is possible to have too many clamps
Denis