Bottom of Hull Raised of Molds

[TC in Twin Lake]

Late last winter I finished stripping my ranger. Looked great! Then a new job(no extra time) and higher humidity and the strips raised off the molds. By the middle of summer they were high enough I could not push them back. I am dehumidifieing now and it has gotten better but I know I will need to cut down the center to relieve the pressure.

I am mulling over differrnt ideas on how to cut out a small strip down the center but I was wondering what anyone else has done to fix this?

Thanks

Todd

[Sherm]

Don't get in too big of a hurry making that cut, I had the same problem on my last build.
When I made a cut enough for it to "lay-down" it actually "drawed" up the gunnels (sheerline) and brought them closer to the water line. I was using Eastern Red cedar and had put it under alot of pressure closing in the football. If you leave it you my a canoe with just alittle more curved bottom which my not be such a bad thing.
My latest build I used straight strips for the football to help avoid the tension of bending short strips. After stripping in the blige area I used a "cheater" strip also. This strip was only half as long as the full length of the canoe and tapered on each end. This helped the
curved strips of the "football" end up alittle straighter.



Link to my last post with the same problem.

http://www.bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2 ... php?t=3666

[AsaBlanchard]

Todd,
It took your boat several months to take on enough moisture to lift it off the molds. Do not expect it to respond immediately. The wood will go back to it's original place as soon as the moisture content in the wood is the same as it was last winter. Even if you check the relative humidity in the room/garage/basement/shop, the moisture will not leave the wood as fast as it leaves the air. I would expect it to take 45-60 days after the room relative humidity is correct (35 - 50 %) to get the wood back to normal (6 - 8 %) if it was kiln dried wood. You can buy a hygrometer at WalMart or Target for $ 15.00 that will measure the humidity and temperature and keep track of the high and lows. The hotter the room, the warmer the air, the less moisture there will be.

Cutting the strips too tight and forcing them down will also cause the strips to lift off the mold.

Good Luck,
Asa,
Custom Cabinet Manufacturer's sales rep and part time boat wanne be

[Big Woody]

I wouldn't cut the boat. I'd either wait for the dehumidifier to shrink it back onto the forms or just glass it how it is, if you can't wait.

Nice boat Sherm! I like the herringbone and center design. I did the same thing.

[Sherm]

Thanks Woody, another thing I did this time around; I did not pull the last
round of staples at the sheer, did this to help hold the hull down till I get it glassed. These will probably be a pain to remove but the gunale will cover this area.

[TC in Twin Lake]

It did push up a little when I finished the last few strips. I think there was some stress put in there from the last few strips and when I removed the straps and weights(stapless method following Canoecraft method for the most part of the build). I am thinking of covering the canoe to the floor, leaving space above it , and putting the dehumidifier under it and letting it run for a few weeks and see how it goes. I think I can make the hull sit down once I get the moisture content down. I did remove the nails I used on the shear line but that wood is definetely tight. We shall see.

[Denis]

Might I suggest using fine finishing nails to pin down offending areas. countersink them partway through and fair and sand over them in place.

Do the glassing with nails still in place and when you pop the boat off the forms the nails should pull through the wood leaving a small hole to patch on inside.

Denis

[TC in Twin Lake]

Thanks for all the advice My hull finally did lay back down on its own thansk to winter humidity levels. I put tooth picks back in the holes on my starter strip and I think this also helped anchor the strips and allowed the bottom to lay back down as it dried. I am glad for once life got in the way of my impatience!

I have filled and sanded, filled and sanded, filled and sanded........................and final sanded the hull today. Hope to 'glass and epoxy this weekend! Wish me luck.

Todd

[Sherm]

Good to hear-----and good luck. I look forward to seeing a picture......

[TC in Twin Lake]

Pictures isn't all that great (this is after the first coat) but I've got three coats on today. Looks I will need a fourth based on the visibility of the weave. No biggy since I am off from work right now looks like ive now have plans for tomorrow morning!

This was my first try at this. A few things I learned:

1. I need better light to see the sides(lots of runs to be removed )
2. Buy better brushes. I spent 30minutes carefully picking bristles out of the first coat. I didn't get them all and I think it will come back to haunt me.
3. Have multiple grunge contaiers ready. My first one got HOT, really HOT.
4. Do not trim cloth first. I fought threads in the resin from the cut edge the whole way.
5. I used the EAST system and so good so far. we will see.
6. I will choose my cedar VERY carefully next time. I am not pleased with the color. Too dark.

I feel like I have passed the biggest hurdle,though! I can work with wood all day long but this concerned me. I did this alone toady and It went decent!

Thanks for all the help

Todd

[Glen Smith]

Looks good Todd. You should take down the runs with a cabinet scraper before applying another coat. It will be easier to obtain a smooth coat.

[TC in Twin Lake 1]

It's done! I finally finished it and took it out for a paddle around ludington State Park last weekend. It was wonderful! I now have a hole in my daytime routine and am looking at the next canoe and or skiff. This project really took off for me when I could see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Thanks for all the help over the last hmmmmmmm 5 years I think.

Todd Conzemius
616 299 7502
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... e=1&ref=nf

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... e=1&ref=nf

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... e=1&ref=nf

[Glen Smith]

Unfortunately, only Facebook members can view the pics.

[Patricks Dad]

very nice! Congratulations...

[David_L]

I just ran into the same problem with my Freedom 17/9 where the hull raised off of the molds. When I put my last strip in it did raise it a little bit, but now it about a 1/4 inch off the molds; probably from the humidity from all the rain we are getting. My only concern is the 1/4" is not in the center of the mold, it about 2-3 inches off center. :confused Do you think this will cause a problem with the canoe or shouldn't I worry about a 1/4 inch? Since the freedom has a flat bottom hull, I may just leave it giving it a little more rounded bottom.