I know the traditional way to install the yoke is under the gunnels with bolts and such.
Would there be any real drawbacks or problems installing like this?
This is one of my grab handles on each end. I've rounded out the ends to fit the inwale as best as I can, and I plan to put one screw through the hull and inwale, into each end of the handle. I'm also going to put thickened epoxy in the groove there prior to screwing it in just for insurance.
With the Yoke, I would be putting 2 screws on each side for a total of 4 (plus thickened epoxy in the groove of the yoke. I thought about trying a mortise and tenon joint, but I'm afraid of trying to stretch my hull much more so this is my next thought. I like the look, I feel its a nice and clean look once I sand the top of the yoke flush to match the inwale.
Thoughts?
Attaching the Yoke a different way
- Glen Smith
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Re: Attaching the Yoke a different way
If the screws will be going into end grain, it will be a weak spot and not recommended.
- John Michne
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Re: Attaching the Yoke a different way
Here's another way...
Details of how I made it are on my web site, http://michneboat.com. Click on My Web Site Home, then Builder's Corner, then Building the Wee Lassie II.
The yoke has tenons cut on it that fit into mortices in the inwale. The assembly was made outside the canoe before mounting it permanently.
John
Details of how I made it are on my web site, http://michneboat.com. Click on My Web Site Home, then Builder's Corner, then Building the Wee Lassie II.
The yoke has tenons cut on it that fit into mortices in the inwale. The assembly was made outside the canoe before mounting it permanently.
John
- Patricks Dad
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Re: Attaching the Yoke a different way
I did something similar to John's approach but all assembly is done in the canoe after the inwale and outwale were installed.
This is a thwart rather than a yoke but I would be confident in this joint for a yoke as well. Rather than a traditional mortise & tenon, I used a biscuit joiner to cut a mortise in both sides of the joint and used a biscuit to secure the joint (no screws). Be sure you fully saturate the end grain of the yoke with un-thickened epoxy before you install with thickened epoxy.
This joint does get quite a bit of stress. The full weight of the canoe (with significantly larger forces for short instances) is placed on them. Don't consider simply the weight of the canoe itself. Imagine someone deciding to sit on it. Imagine jumping up and down with the canoe on your shoulders (or stumbling on a portage and having it fall on your back as you hit the ground).
Consider building this joint separately from your build and test it for strength before committing it to your canoe.
If you would like to strengthen it somewhat, you could make the yoke somewhat (say 1/4") thicker on the underside and have it extend out under the inwale (this extension could be a bit narrower than the yoke end itself so it would be mostly obscured under the yoke when installed).
Hope this is helpful.
This is a thwart rather than a yoke but I would be confident in this joint for a yoke as well. Rather than a traditional mortise & tenon, I used a biscuit joiner to cut a mortise in both sides of the joint and used a biscuit to secure the joint (no screws). Be sure you fully saturate the end grain of the yoke with un-thickened epoxy before you install with thickened epoxy.
This joint does get quite a bit of stress. The full weight of the canoe (with significantly larger forces for short instances) is placed on them. Don't consider simply the weight of the canoe itself. Imagine someone deciding to sit on it. Imagine jumping up and down with the canoe on your shoulders (or stumbling on a portage and having it fall on your back as you hit the ground).
Consider building this joint separately from your build and test it for strength before committing it to your canoe.
If you would like to strengthen it somewhat, you could make the yoke somewhat (say 1/4") thicker on the underside and have it extend out under the inwale (this extension could be a bit narrower than the yoke end itself so it would be mostly obscured under the yoke when installed).
Hope this is helpful.
Re: Attaching the Yoke a different way
Thanks for the responses! Since my inwales are already installed, going the M&T route would be tricky. It can be done I see as you did with the thwart, but like you also said this joint will have quite a bit of stress on it and since it will be the only cross support, I think I'm going to go with the traditional method of setting it under the inwale and putting bolts down through it.
I did appreciate the teaching though, and I'll be sure to file this stuff away for when I get the itch to build another one of these some day :)
I did appreciate the teaching though, and I'll be sure to file this stuff away for when I get the itch to build another one of these some day :)