First Build Questions

[stu]

I'm planning out my first canoe build of a ranger and have a few questions.

What grade of wood should I go for? At first I was set on completely clear wood but when I priced it out at my local lumber yard it came to about $650 for the 8 1x6s that I think I need. I'm don't really care about knots in terms of cosmetics but I do want to use full length strips and Im worried about them breaking at knots.

I'm also thinking about going stemless. I'm using canoecraft which does not talk about stemless design so if someone could point me towards some good instructions that would be helpful. I know that I should use some extra layers of fibreglass on the stem to make up for the lost protection. Will the offcuts from my 2 60"x11yds sheets be enough for that?

Thanks

[compass]

Stu, I am a novice when it comes to canoe construction having only started my Ranger about 2 months ago. At first, I thought that I only wanted clear, full length planks but as my build proceeded I actually welcomed the occasional (small) knot, butt joint or unusual grain pattern as long as they occur in a relatively flat or low stress area. In my opinion, these less than perfect strips give the canoe more character. George.

[Jim Dodd]

Stu

Congratulations on planning a Stemless build !

First some thoughts on your search for wood. I don't know what is available in your area . I look for a Lumber yard that will let you sort ! 1x stock is what I use, as it saves a lot of work, compared to 2x stock.
The 1x stock, I look for is Flat grained. I look down the plank, and if I can get full length strips out of at least half the plank ? It comes home with me.
Do a search of cutting strips with a Skilsaw. It's plain and simple the best, for cutting 1x stock.

Remember this ! The best planks are on the Bottom ! Straighten up the pile better than you found it ! You'll be welcome again !

Your Stem forms, are all you need to alter for stemless. They need to fit the same profile as the stem form, with the Tapered inner stem.

Going Stemless saves money and a lot of time !

Here is a link That shows how to cut the ends of the strips, and is packed with some great tips.

https://www.canoetripping.net/forums/fo ... 3909-pearl

Good Luck Stu !

Jim

[Cruiser]

Welcome and I hope you plan on letting us take this journey with you via posts/pics.

A couple comments on your wood .... first 8 1" x 6", does seem on the high side ... but that will depend some on the lumber you buy. If it is typical, you are starting with 3/4", which means you get 5/8" effective strips (3/4" -1/8" for C&B). This in turn means a few more strips. Jim is giving good advice on using the skilsaw method, buy a thin kerf, low tooth (24 or less) blade and you won't regret that decision. It is a lot easier and you will likely get more strips from each board, thanks to the blade.

We are on exactly the same page as far as strips/knots in source wood, I like to stabilize any knots prior to building, which will prevent them falling apart when you cut strips, you then can sort what you want to use and what you don't, without all the fuss of broken strips.

You can get some info on stabilizing knots at the start of this link to my current build: https://www.canoetripping.net/forums/fo ... pper-build

You should be able to get enough for the stems, if you carefully harvest some of the excess cloth ... as it hangs over the side.

When selecting your wood, keep in mind your intended use ... if you will be carrying that canoe on a portage, weight will matter ... pick a lighter wood like Western red cedar or Northern White Cedar. If you will carry it from the car/truck to the water only, then weight isn't as much of a concern and your wood selection opens up some ... the actual wood hull weight is the single largest weight component in the canoe ... if you start heavy, you will only get heavier as you progress. Why mention this? When selecting boards, this something else to consider ... if you have sorted boards before, you will know that not all boards weigh the same, so if weight is a concern, it is part of the pick criteria as well.

This is going to be exciting trip for you, remember to have fun and don't overthink or worry the process.

Brian

[stu]

Thanks for all the tips. Stabilizing the knots beforehand is a great idea. I plan on using western red cedar with the standard 1/2"x3/4" bead and cove and I will definitely be using the skill saw method as I don't have a tablesaw. Here is how I calculated my wood - let me know if I have messed up:

I measured the widest around part of my hull from my plans and got 54". 54" / 5/8" = 87 strips. I rounded that to 100 to account for breaking things, mistakes, and color choice

I then divided the width of a 1x6 (5-1/2") by the amount used for one strip (1/4" + 1/8" waste from the cut - my saw blade is only about 2mm but I used 1/8" to make the math easier and to give a larger margin of error)

1-1/2" / 3/8" = 14 strips per board

100 / 14 = 7.14 boards

I'm sure 7 would do it but I rather have to much then have to buy more and redo the whole strip making process when I'm 95% done the boat

[Jim Dodd]

The Freund Diablo, has a much thinner kerf,
Six planks should be plenty.
It is good to have extra strips. Maybe to build another canoe !
I had enough extra from my very first two canoes, to build a little Wee Lassie !
Back in those days I could get #3 and better WRC, 1 x 12 x 16' for $24. Those were the days !

Good luck on your wood search !

Jim

[stu]

I ended up finding a really good deal on some rough cut 1x6s and bought 6 of them. I don't think this should be a problem as I have already cut 1/16" off of the side of each board with my skill saw to get a flat surface to start with and that has gone well. My understanding is that the top and bottom faces of the board don't really matter as they will be finished and made consistent when I put them through the router for bead and cove. My only concern is that the boards are a true 1" and not 3/4". Will 1/4"x1" strips work? If not can I take of the extra 1/4" with the router when I do bead and cove? Worst case I know someone who can plane the boards down to 3/4

[Cruiser]

While they don't "need" to be planed to 3/4", personally, I would get them done if you can. The rough boards aren't just rough surfaced, they are also not dimensionaly consistent as you found with the edges.

Getting them planed gives you parallel surfaces, so that when you cut strips you don't have to worry about router setup to try and smooth out the potential varying thickness. The issue is that if the thickness isn't consistent, along the board, and you try and use the router (during beading coving) to remedy this, you can end up with a cove/bead surface that is not straight.

So, if you can get them planed, I personally would do that first.


Brian

[stu]

Am I correct that I only really have to plane one face of each board flat? That means that each strip would have a flat edge to put against the fence when I cut the bead from the rough edge and then the bead would be flat and could be put against the fence to do the cove.

[Cruiser]

Hi Stu, you could do that, but the question would be, why would you?

If you are taking off 1/4", why not just flatten both sides ... it will make your life easier, and when it comes to milling operations, making your life easier is not a bad thing. A board with a true edge and a flat parallel top/bottom is just easier to work with and gives you less places to create potential errors.

Rough lumber can vary in thickness, so 4/4 wood can be thinner than 1" in some areas and thicker in others, on the same board, that's why it's called rough lumber. You plane one side till it gets a consistent cut down the length, then flip it and do the same on the other side, I suspect you will get both sides flat well before you hit 3/4" thick point, then just finish it to 3/4" ... if you have access to the plane, you might as well get the lumber to the dimension you need, it is very little extra work. The router can work, but it is meant as a shaping tool and if you try and remove too much on a strip, it will/can create splinters and ruin the strip.


Brian

[Jim Dodd]

You can plane them if it makes you feel better. It's really a waste of time ! Unless you plan to hand bevel or Roto bevel ( Nick Schade), then planing is best.
I've never planed a plank for bead and cove construction. That is one of the Beauties of B and C.

Running your strips BETWEEN the bit and the fence does that for you, the first pass !

Set the gap Between the bit and fence to your thinnest plank. Once that is set ? The first pass will uniform all strips to that dimension.
Uniformity is the name of the game.

Of course, cut the Bead first.



Good Luck !

Jim

[stu]

I think I am going to use Jim's method and not plane the boards because I would have to bring them somewhere to get planed and I don't have an easy way to move boards that long. I just want to confirm that 1"x 1/4" strips won't be too big

[Cruiser]

Depending on the boat, you need to watch the size of the strips. If it is a relatively "uncurvy" wider strips will work fine. However, if you have bends and curves, 1" can get to be a problem real fast.

On my current build I took my rough lumber down to 7/8" (from 4/4 rough lumber) ... I was going to make then 3/4" but I just couldn't make any more sawdust from the beautiful northern white cedar .... so stopped at 7/8".

The design has bends and curves and the wider strips fought me every step of the way and I cursed my short shortsightedness for making the strips with my wood workers hat instead of my canoe builder hat. The narrower strips are easier to handle and follow bends easier .... the wider strips cover more area and don't twist and bend so easy .....

Surprise, another decision for you to make, lol

Brian

[stu]

I am building a ranger. Not sure how curvy or 'uncurvey' it is compared to other canoes

[Jim Dodd]

You should be fine Stu.

Little if any Trumblehome in the Ranger, you shouldn't any problems. Brian is right narrower strips work better, to follow hull curves.

When setting up your Router for the B&C use the three feather boards, and you will be fine !

My first Router set up was with a cheap Craftsman, and flimsy feather boards. It worked great and still does.

Good Luck !

Jim