On my plans for Freedom 17 stem mold drawing it has notes that say, note 1, stem shape assumes mold stations are not being faired.
note 2, If station are being faired then trim the thickness of station from the stem mold.
Can't find anything in canoe craft that addresses this. IT says how to check and fix station molds, and move them a bit for better fair.
Lyle
cutting end off stem molds
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Patricks Dad
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Re: cutting end off stem molds
If you are not shaping your station molds to match the fair curve of the hull, you can leave the stem mold as drawn. The edge of the last station molds on either end of the canoe will then match the height of your stem molds.
But if you choose to fair the station molds, then the outer edges of the last station molds will be a bit shorter leading to a stem mold that is a bit too tall (requiring you to trim it off a bit).
I think this is what the notes are trying to tell you.
Most people don't fair the station molds (and simply place the "active edge" of their station molds ON the station lines for an accurate curve.
If you aren't fairing your station molds, you can safely ignore these notes.
hope this helps (and enjoy your build! - it's an awesome craft).
edited: here's a picture the shows the difference between faired and non-faired stations and where you would place the station relative to the station line (and why you would want to removed the thickness of the station mold from the stem mold if you are fairing your station molds
this picture (literally drawn on the back of an envelop) isn't so great but the idea is that in the right side (fairing), you would shorten the stem mold by the thickness of the station mold (my drawing seems to suggest something less than that - but hopefully you get the idea...
In both cases, the distance from the station line to the end of the craft is the same.
But if you choose to fair the station molds, then the outer edges of the last station molds will be a bit shorter leading to a stem mold that is a bit too tall (requiring you to trim it off a bit).
I think this is what the notes are trying to tell you.
Most people don't fair the station molds (and simply place the "active edge" of their station molds ON the station lines for an accurate curve.
If you aren't fairing your station molds, you can safely ignore these notes.
hope this helps (and enjoy your build! - it's an awesome craft).
edited: here's a picture the shows the difference between faired and non-faired stations and where you would place the station relative to the station line (and why you would want to removed the thickness of the station mold from the stem mold if you are fairing your station molds
this picture (literally drawn on the back of an envelop) isn't so great but the idea is that in the right side (fairing), you would shorten the stem mold by the thickness of the station mold (my drawing seems to suggest something less than that - but hopefully you get the idea...
In both cases, the distance from the station line to the end of the craft is the same.
Re: cutting end off stem molds
Thank you so much you turned on a bright light.
This is my first build, well if i could count helping with a fabric covered one when i was 8 ,9 years old that was 67 years back.
don't go far I will be looking for more help.
Lyle
This is my first build, well if i could count helping with a fabric covered one when i was 8 ,9 years old that was 67 years back.
don't go far I will be looking for more help.
Lyle