Just saw you=tube of bear mountain building a canoe with strips heading saying they were 5/32 bead and cove
sounds better than 1\8 should make edge of cove a bit stronger. Every where else says 1/8 radius. But looking on
internet can't find any 5/32
lyle
5/32 bead and cove
Re: 5/32 bead and cove
Without a link, it is hard to make a response to this.
Just have no idea of what was said
Brian
Just have no idea of what was said
Brian
Re: 5/32 bead and cove
This may be what you're looking for. 5/32" R = 5/16" D
https://www.amazon.ca/Yonico-13202q-Can ... B0799YFPSV
https://www.amazon.ca/Yonico-13202q-Can ... B0799YFPSV
Re: 5/32 bead and cove
Yes Stephen that is it! Do you use the 5/16 cutter? looks to me they should work better, with a 1/4" cutter
if strip is even .002 or .003 over .250 you will get a sliver coming off the cove, + when cutting them if strip moves
up even .003 you will start to get a step on one side. With 5/16 cutters there is room for about .015 error in strip
size, how well cutter is centered, and if strip moves up or down when cutting. I am not saying get sloppy.
It could change a scrap strip into a ok lets use it one.
if strip is even .002 or .003 over .250 you will get a sliver coming off the cove, + when cutting them if strip moves
up even .003 you will start to get a step on one side. With 5/16 cutters there is room for about .015 error in strip
size, how well cutter is centered, and if strip moves up or down when cutting. I am not saying get sloppy.
It could change a scrap strip into a ok lets use it one.
Re: 5/32 bead and cove
If I understand this now, you are wondering if you can/should use oversize cutters with your strips. i.e. 1/4" cutters with 3/16" strips and 5/16" cutters with 1/4" strips.
As far as advantages, the alignments you mention are always going to be the case .... strips with uniform width and thickness are an essential first step in quality strip production.
Using slightly larger cutters does 2 main things to the joint produced (bead + cove) 1) it is slightly shallower and 2) the cut angle at the edge of the cove is shallower, resulting in a more robust edge.
The cove edge is more robust, but it still should be cut "just to the edge", same as using a cutter sized to the strip width. This part is a small benefit, as the strips resist taking edge damage a little better, but that can also be accomplished by careful strip handling.
The shallower cove part can be an issue .. it doesn't have the same depth of cut, so the joint can't rotate as far before flat wood is exposed. The other issue is the ability to hold the joint together, on a lot curving strip joint, the shallower cove will tend to kick out. You can police the entire length of the joint and add extra pressure to keep the whole joint together and aligned, but that gets tiresome.
Citing these issues isn't meant to deter the use of "a size up" cutter set, in the end, IMO it really comes down to the craft lines of your project. Something like a Freedom 17 from BearMountain has clean straight lines, twisting and curving are moderate and either strip type would work fine. Change over to a Freedom Solo and I would fall back to cutters sized to the strip thickness, the curves and twists would be better handled by the full depth cove and make stripping easier.
Having said all that, on my last build, I used 1/4" cutters on 3/16" strips and that is the basis for the building comments. As far as strip cutting and router setup. about 3/4 of the way down this thread, I cover how I cut strips and align the router to cut the coves and bead https://www.canoetripping.net/forums/fo ... pper-build
I would stress that this is just the way that works for me, you will need to adapt the process to your shop and tools available.
Brian
As far as advantages, the alignments you mention are always going to be the case .... strips with uniform width and thickness are an essential first step in quality strip production.
Using slightly larger cutters does 2 main things to the joint produced (bead + cove) 1) it is slightly shallower and 2) the cut angle at the edge of the cove is shallower, resulting in a more robust edge.
The cove edge is more robust, but it still should be cut "just to the edge", same as using a cutter sized to the strip width. This part is a small benefit, as the strips resist taking edge damage a little better, but that can also be accomplished by careful strip handling.
The shallower cove part can be an issue .. it doesn't have the same depth of cut, so the joint can't rotate as far before flat wood is exposed. The other issue is the ability to hold the joint together, on a lot curving strip joint, the shallower cove will tend to kick out. You can police the entire length of the joint and add extra pressure to keep the whole joint together and aligned, but that gets tiresome.
Citing these issues isn't meant to deter the use of "a size up" cutter set, in the end, IMO it really comes down to the craft lines of your project. Something like a Freedom 17 from BearMountain has clean straight lines, twisting and curving are moderate and either strip type would work fine. Change over to a Freedom Solo and I would fall back to cutters sized to the strip thickness, the curves and twists would be better handled by the full depth cove and make stripping easier.
Having said all that, on my last build, I used 1/4" cutters on 3/16" strips and that is the basis for the building comments. As far as strip cutting and router setup. about 3/4 of the way down this thread, I cover how I cut strips and align the router to cut the coves and bead https://www.canoetripping.net/forums/fo ... pper-build
I would stress that this is just the way that works for me, you will need to adapt the process to your shop and tools available.
Brian
Re: 5/32 bead and cove
I've never actually used them, I just knew what to google based on your description.