Widest strip that can be used

[ericpatw]

I'm a first time builder. I've purchased WRC rough boards that are a full 1 1/8" x 6". I see that the common size is 3/4" thick. Can I plane to 1" and cut strips 1/4"x 1" realizing that they will end at 7/8" for build? Hate to waste good lumber.

[Jim Dodd]

I'm a first time builder. I've purchased WRC rough boards that are a full 1 1/8" x 6". I see that the common size is 3/4" thick. Can I plane to 1" and cut strips 1/4"x 1" realizing that they will end at 7/8" for build? Hate to waste good lumber.

I too, hate to waste lumber.

Many times, because the planks I bought were #3 and better, I would find planks 1"+.
You should have no trouble, especially if you bead and cove them, with a 7/8" width strip !

The bilge area, would be your only area to give you trouble. I doubt it.

What design are you thinking of ?

Jim

[Cruiser]

The boat is the first question that needs to be asked when you talk of building with wider strips. If it's a fairly straight boat (as canoes go, think Freedom 17, Kipawa) then you are fine with strips that tend to be wider. If there is tumblehome and curves (think Freedom Solo) then there are a few tight turns in the hull, in that case you can just do some full width, slice some in half and make a batch of narrower strips for the twisty/curvy sections.



Brian

[sedges]

You can certainly use 1 1/8 strips for the sides of the hull, but they will cause problems around the bilge. The wider your strips are around the bilge the thinner they will be after you fair it out to a smooth curve. With 1 1/8 strips you might actually end up scraping and sanding through the strips.

Wider strips could also be used in the bottom "football" if you fill it in with strips parallel to the keel. Wider strips will be hard to bend to the curve of the football because they are bending edge-wise.

Maybe plane down just one of the boards to 3/4, or split some strips as mentioned above, to get around the bilge.

[ericpatw]

Thanks for the info. Once you run them through thickness planer you find divets unseen when rough. I ended up with 13/16" thickness. I'm building the 15' Ranger. This is a bucket list project. My cousins husband built two cedar strip canoes 20 or more years ago and that sparks my imagination. At my age, closing 80, I look at projects as therapy.

[ericpatw]

I started building a Ranger 15'. Got forms mounted and trued. I lofted plans from Canoe Craft using cad software. The first 6 courses went on as expected. The following to course 12 started leaving a gap on station 5. If I push to contact number 5 I get a reverse curve to stem. Is this normal? I'm building stapleless.

[Jim Dodd]

If I visualize it correctly ? Yes.
It should end when you get to the Football.
A picture would tell better !

Jim

[ericpatw]

I'm not quite sure how to post pictures. I tried but got a file to large notice. Will try again tomorrow
The gap I speak of is about a 1/2 in
but when pushed in the curve turns to concave instead of convex.

[Cruiser]

Just a followup question on the form setup, did you check that all the forms were fare. basically putting a strip down the length to make sure all the forms looked correct shape?


Brian

[ericpatw]

Not thoroughly enough. Did ckecks at stems and first 4 or 5 stations. All seemed reasonably ok. I'm continuing as it is the same at both ends and sides. I checked the plans that I lofted and they were spot on.
Eric

[ericpatw]

I think I found my problem. I didn't take the inner stem width off when I lofted the stem station. I haven't figured how to upload pictures yet.
Eric

[Lyle]

I am a first time builder. Just getting done putting strips on a Freedom 17, got northern white cedar deck boards, they cleaned up at 63/64", put
first strip on straight across at the lowest point of sheer line. striped up to start of bilge they looked to wide for curve to me. Cut some strips to 3/4"
and four to 5/8" got past bilge back to 63/64" wide all the way to C/L. Will put 63/64" from from other side of straight where I started to fill in to
top of bow and stern. time will tell how well it will be.

Lyle

[Cruiser]

That is a great boat Lyle and with all the straight lines stripping should be straight forward and strip width isn't much of a concern. NWC is a great wood to work with, I have done several builds with it, including my own Freedom 17, love the look and the workability it has... give us pics


Brian

[ericpatw]

I've had a pretty good month on the 15' Ranger I'm building. I finished the hull, got it faired and got the 6oz. cloth on and 2 coats of west systems epoxy on. Was unable to do third the same day. Question is, how much sanding required to prepare for 3rd coat? I've sanded with 80 grit followed with 120 grit. There are still some shiny spots remaining. Can I apply 3rd coat over these? Still haven't figured how to post pictures.

[Cruiser]

Eric, this is likely where you are




and this is where you want to be to recoat




Brian