If you sand into the weave ? You are weakening the cloth.
Always allow enough time to get all the fill coats on, or wait until you can.
Sorry !
A very light sanding. and add fill coats. The clarity of the final product might suffer some. But it's better than weakening the integrity of the cloth .
Good luck !
Jim
Widest strip that can be used
Re: Widest strip that can be used
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Re: Widest strip that can be used
Brian. Thanks for info. I worked on hull today. Found that a maroon scotch brite pad does wonders. Will go over with 120 grit to get ready for final coat of epoxy. I'm thinking my squeegee is to flexible as I didn't get an even application. Learning as I go.
Re: Widest strip that can be used
Eric
A foam roller, my favorite is the Cigar type foam rollers, do an excellent job of applying an even coat !
In fact I use them for the entire process.
Early builders didn't have foam rollers, Now we do ! Use them you will like them !
A foam roller, my favorite is the Cigar type foam rollers, do an excellent job of applying an even coat !
In fact I use them for the entire process.
Early builders didn't have foam rollers, Now we do ! Use them you will like them !
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Re: Widest strip that can be used
Jim, just picked up some of those rollers. Got to put some extra cloth on stems then apply final coat.
Eric
Eric
Re: Widest strip that can be used
Hi Eric,
On my last build posts I covered off adding the extra strips at the bow/stern here https://www.canoetripping.net/forums/fo ... uild/page8
You may find something useful.
Brian
On my last build posts I covered off adding the extra strips at the bow/stern here https://www.canoetripping.net/forums/fo ... uild/page8
You may find something useful.
Brian
Re: Widest strip that can be used
Brian. I've read your build,(learned a lot), and in particular the stem reforcement. Thanks. There are many similarities to finishing a vehicle. Just finished a 1959 Chev pickup. Took about 10 years but what was learned helps in this build, just a different shape.
Eric
Eric
Re: Widest strip that can be used
Been a while since last post. Was wondering if anyone has used Old Masters spar varnish. I'm close to this step and purchased some of this varnish and when reading product data sheet it mentions not to use below water line on wooden boats. Does being epoxy change this designation? Have I purchased the wrong varnish?
Eric
Eric
Re: Widest strip that can be used
FWIW the Epifanes varnish that Bear Mountain sells for finishing a canoe carries the same caution. https://www.epifanes.com/page/clear-finishes
I'm wondering if this warning is meant for a big yacht which might be floating all summer, as opposed to a canoe which will be fished out of the water at the end of every trip. Just a thought.
Stephen
I'm wondering if this warning is meant for a big yacht which might be floating all summer, as opposed to a canoe which will be fished out of the water at the end of every trip. Just a thought.
Stephen
Re: Widest strip that can be used
Eric. nearly all Spar varnishes I've used are labeled " Not for use below the waterline."
I used them, without problems, on my canoes.
As Stephen states Epifanes, is top of the line.
Hull prep is the most important thing, removing any blush that may have developed, during the epoxy cure, seems to be the biggest problem.
Address that, and I'm sure you will be fine with what you have.
Jim
I used them, without problems, on my canoes.
As Stephen states Epifanes, is top of the line.
Hull prep is the most important thing, removing any blush that may have developed, during the epoxy cure, seems to be the biggest problem.
Address that, and I'm sure you will be fine with what you have.
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Re: Widest strip that can be used
Hi Eric,
I believe that is meant as a warning for long term immersion, not the relatively short immersion for a canoe. For normal usage, you will be paddling for hours, then the canoe is removed from the water.
If you have a craft which will be sitting, in the water, for months, this is not the varnish to use below the waterline (in fact I believe that would be true for all varnishes).
So to answer your question, it is fine. I have used that varnish and it is OK, not as nice as Epiphanes, but it will do the job. Generally, the premium varnishes have a nicer finish and may be somewhat easier to use, but the mid range varnishes are still good and will do the job.
The big thing with the best varnishes is the solids content and UV protection, the UV protection is one of the only reasons you varnish ( protecting the epoxy), so check out how much the varnish offers. Without the UV protection, varnishing is almost pointless ... so take a few minutes and dig into that to insure you have covered that base.
Brian
I believe that is meant as a warning for long term immersion, not the relatively short immersion for a canoe. For normal usage, you will be paddling for hours, then the canoe is removed from the water.
If you have a craft which will be sitting, in the water, for months, this is not the varnish to use below the waterline (in fact I believe that would be true for all varnishes).
So to answer your question, it is fine. I have used that varnish and it is OK, not as nice as Epiphanes, but it will do the job. Generally, the premium varnishes have a nicer finish and may be somewhat easier to use, but the mid range varnishes are still good and will do the job.
The big thing with the best varnishes is the solids content and UV protection, the UV protection is one of the only reasons you varnish ( protecting the epoxy), so check out how much the varnish offers. Without the UV protection, varnishing is almost pointless ... so take a few minutes and dig into that to insure you have covered that base.
Brian