Lofting woes

[Cruiser]

Poster board isn't the best material for the lofting IMO, I prefer the 24" x 36" grid pattern (1") paper pad, sold at Staples. You get about 50 sheets, so lots of room for error and they are not very expensive. Something like this https://www.staples.ca/products/975150- ... -50-sheets

These sheets allow you to use carbon paper, which I have done ... but I now prefer a method I lifted from a Jason Eke video and is covered here in my last build thread https://www.canoetripping.net/forums/fo ... uild/page3

You may find something that clicks on the lofting process there, I have used both and have settled on this one for several reasons. It eliminates the guess work of line darkness and coverage of the paper. When you put in the finishing nails, you can visualize the curves and any issues as you go along and at this stage corrections are easy (misplotted and points which are off in the tables).


Brian

[Kanu]

There is a chance I am doing everything wrong. But it's MY wrong! :) I have drawn out six grids on poster board (Staples USA does not have the grid paper you suggested Brian. And I can't find it anywhere else near me.) using a ruler, straightedge, and a magnifying glass. I plotted out stations 0-7 for the Ranger, also using a magnifying glass. I have triple checked my measurements and there is nowhere that things are more than 1/32 inch off. I have still yet to draw the curves and create the stem drawing. I am waiting on those because trying to figure out how to get myself a batten. I have no table saw so it is not so easy to make myself some. I am also trying to figure out the stem questions in my head. Seems that station #7 is not needed for the Ranger since that spot is more dominantly taken by the stem anyway. That's fine with me. But I have a ton of questions about the stem, such as whether it butts up directly onto station #6.
As far as how to transfer the patterns onto wood, I was just going to cut them out of the poster board, draw it or trace it or whatever it is called onto the plywood and cut that out. I imagine I will be using the magnifying glass for this too. I don't have access to a lot of tech, lumber, money, tools, so I gotta do it how I gotta do it. I learn best from doing, even if it is just me learning from mistakes.

[Stephen]

All the canoes in Ted's book have a station that occurs within the space of the stem mold, and some builders do indeed leave it out, for some canoes at least. If you include Station 6, the station is cut in half, removing the thickness of the stem mold material from the middle. The two halves are then mounted to the sides of the stem mold.

[Kanu]

I can't imagine that I can leave station 6 out as well as 7. But given that I have no table saw to accurately cut 6 in half and then take out the stem thickness, maybe I will look at leaving it out. I know people say you can do this without a good supply of tools but it sure is challenging.

[Stephen]

Sorry, wasn't paying attention to myself, I meant to say station 7. Station 6 is not cut in half.

[Cruiser]

One point on the stem, the numbers need to be reduced by 3/4", unless you are doing a stemless build. I think this is noted somewhere on the table, other wise the stations won't line up correctly.

I covered this at the end of my lofting post viewtopic.php?t=4658

Brian

[Kanu]

Phew, thank goodness you meant station 7 instead of 6, I was even more confused than normal by that. Thanks for taking the time to update my brain. Ok, yes Brian, I think I get it about the 3/4 inch thing, thank you.

[Kanu]

Ok guys, so if I have the profile point then following to the first 2inch butt line then 4,6,8,...for the heights, and same for all the half breadths as well as the line across for the sheer and a chunk maybe 6 in wide from that down as the connection to the strongback, am I ready to draw the curve and then plot that onto the plywood, or are there any important points I am forgetting? I had to take a few days off for reasons of mental repair, back at it now though.

[Cruiser]

I usually pick a convenient height and add a line for all the stations, just as a common place for height comparison. It helps me align the first strips and get a better visual when I want to figure out if something doesn't look right.

You can see what I mean on these form layouts, i used 13" here ... to give me a horizontal reference point on each form.




Brian