Advice on varnish

[Bassbug]

Could builders give me advice on which varnish (brand) you have used with good success (for my redwood Redbird)? Also, it would be helpful if you could include mail order/web sources to purchase the varnish.

[Glen Smith]

I haven't tried them all but so far my favourite is Epifanes. I purchase mine from the nearest marine store but it is also sold by : http://noahsmarine.com/ and probably several others.

[Rick]

I went with Interlux Schooner 96, mainly because it's available here, and others said it was easier to apply than Epifanes, and had some additives that made using it more troublefree. But Epifanes may give more professional results for all I know. Schooner also seemed to have a harder surface than cheaper spar varnishes I'd used in the past. No problems with drying in cool temps either.

Here's an interview on varnishes, although biased from the Interlux point of view.

http://www.wcha.org/wcj/v21_n2/varnish.html

[sedges]

I have been using a cheaper spar varnish for great results for years. I have boats that have the original varnish on the topsides for ten years. Often, I only refinish below the waterline were all the scratches are located. Benjamin Moore Impervo 440 Spar Varnish. Less than $10 a quart at your local BM dealer. I have been using this for 20 years. It brushes very well with a GOOD bristle brush. I highly recommend investing in a very good brush. I used average brushes for years until I inherited a very fine oval brush from my father. It had to be 45 years old. I use a brush cleaner to keep it happy. It keeps me happy because it is such a pleasure to use. I brush of this quality may cost $25 dollars or more, but it lasts forever if well kept.

[Guest]

sedges,

Could you tell me how you clean your brush to make it last forever?

[Dave B.]

Question: For those of us who are not professionals and only varnish occasionally, can you elaborate on the various acceptable methods of cleaning and storing brushes in between uses? Also, what is the qualitative difference between Badger hairbrushes and Chinese Bristle brushes?

Answer: When it comes to cleaning and storing brushes, we are stuck on one method that works very well for us. We have tried many methods, none with any degree of success, especially over the long term. Most methods of course, work great over the short period but, it’ months or years later that really tells the tale in our opinion. This is how we recommend cleaning and storing a natural bristle brush: First, find yourself a container that is impervious to solvents (polyethylene works good). Epifanes manufactures a Brushkeeper specifically for this purpose. The container should be tall enough for your biggest brush and wide enough for your collection. Devise a rack system (ie. coat hanger) that will hang your brushes suspended just clear of the bottom. Fill the container with Diesel (yes, Diesel) or Kerosene until the ferule (the metal part) is halfway submerged. This will ensure that the bristles are “underwater”. This is where they will live. When it comes time to use the brush, simply rinse out the diesel two or three times with common mineral spirit, spin and use. After use, repeat with two or three rinsings, a spin and back in the diesel. This method will keep your brushes clean and supple for years. we have 15-year-old brushes that are in great shape. The diesel has enough cutting capability to keep the varnish from clogging up the bristles but, is oily enough to keep the bristles soft. Most brushes these days are Natural or Chinese bristle. Occasionally you will come across a Badger Bristle brush. Have a close look however, as some of the “Badger” bristle brushes are Chinese bristle that have been bleached with the “stripe” to look like Badger. These are called “Badger Style”. Read the fine print. Chinese bristle is a stiffer and longer lasting bristle and our choice for high solid paints and varnishes. They will outlast a Badger bristle by years. Beyond this, it comes down to personal preference.

[sedges]

I use a dedicated brush cleaner. This stuff is toxic as hell, but works great. Clean your brush outside. Fastrip is the name on the container. Its Got a soup of chemicals in it. Acetone, Methynol, tuolene and methyl chloride.

I try and remove as much varnish from the brush as possible before cleaning. Stroke it on old newspaper. Don't stress it so much that you break bristles. Find a can that fits your brush, so you don't have to use a lot of the cleaner to cover the bristles. Let it soak for a few minutes and then take it out and shake the solution out of the brush. I really think one of the brush spinners would be a good investment for doing this. They are available from the WoodenBoat Store(the magazine). In a second can put a bit of new cleaner and work the brush into it. Spin or shake out again. Then I stroke the brush vigorously on a piece of rough-sawn wood. I have a rough-sawn cedar post outside my shop that is convenient. This removes most of the cleaner and the wood fibers sort of comb out the bristle tips. I usually leave the brush hanging there and stroke a few more times when I happen to walk by during the day. When it is all dry it will be nice and soft.

The varnish residue sinks to the bottom of the cans, so the cleaner can be decanted off and used again.

Remember this stuff is toxic and very flammable. Be care with it.

[Nachako]

I used BER Super spar from Home Hardware. The things I liked about it was That it had a UV of 45 It was easy to obtain and get more when ever I want to reapply The fumes were not to bad It was easy to work will and leveled quiet well And most of all the color came out as a light coco and not yellow which was a real concern . hope this helps.