The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

if you want to give the epoxy a tooth to allow the fresh to bond well, without risking cutting into the glass, you can use maroon scotch bright pads. they scratch the surface well whilst conforming to the surface. you should be able to pick them up from an automotive repair supply place. the grey on...

So, this is the hull of hard knocks and she looks none the worse for her ride on the wind. I tried to find the cracks. I could not......... Congratulations. She looks great thanx hpd :) alas, were that only true. from the distance of the side profile you don't see them, but as you get closer you st...

welp, after much drama, the first bit of glassing is done! unfortunalyly the lighting wasn't the best so the pics look a bit crap, and the side profile looks mottled when it isn't. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/colective/Canoe%20Build/glassed_topview.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/c...

a good example of the fine tuning is illustrated in the companion dvd to canoe craft. i had the same problem, and it seemed to be more at one end than the other.

yeh, i thought about that glen... but it kinda feels like it's going to break if i push down on it to get it back to the forms, which is kinda a per-requisite to screwing the blocks attached to the hull to the forms.

ga! one of the downsides to building out doors is being at the mercy of the weather. i can only work on the canoe on the weekends, and we have rain more days than dry for the last 3 weeks. when i finally managed to get the covers off to scrape the last round of filling smooth, i noticed that the hul...

you might also want to read some of the posts by bryan hanson, particularly "Canoe Fiberglassed and Dyed" where he had bug problems. aside from the wind issue, which either securing the stongback properly or storing it out of the weather when not being worked on would fix, the three main i...

you are are going to have a boundary line between the stem and strips caused by the stem, so i think as long as the glue line is an even thickness, preferably thin, it should still look ok. the thickener for glue in the epoxy system i used is pale purple! i'm not sure about the vertical fill, but ce...

glen: after talking around, everyone agreed that splinters would be a fitting name, so that's what i'm gonna go with :) welp, the hull was a bit of a mess, it had the signs of repairs, blotchyness and tan lines from the sun, water marks from the rain when it had been sitting on the ground under cove...

for the reason you already stated (ie to avoid material from the cover ending up on your job) a lot of covers state to wash the cover first and dry before using them, because you don't want bits of cover showing up in your paint or varnish either. boatcraft pacific who make the bote coat epoxy syste...

the usual way to remove wax from a relatively non porous surface is with surface preparation agent. there's a couple of products i use. one is called prepsolv. another is called "wax and grease remover" by house of kolor. i'm sure you will find others.

another trick to try is to use a maroon automotive scuff pad. i often use them when prepping for primer on surfaces that have a texture that ordinary paper can sand through. it removes the gloss, and the maroon ones give a good key. the pads tend to follow the contours of the surface, which would be...

i know the feeling all too well kermit. my build is out doors, so the weather plays a big part in productivity. we had rain for 2 weeks at one stage, which didn't do me any favours.even worse when the tarp that's been fine for months starts to leak and you find your hull has gone rubbery. hope you g...

thanx glen!

i was toying with the idea of calling it "the flounder".....

nice idea, but a bit late ccf. i've already completed the repairs, cut the sheer line and installed the outer stems. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/colective/Canoe%20Build/Stems_planed_side.jpg an idea i had toyed with was drilling holes either side of spits and gluing in tooth picks, then usi...