The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

i decided i should start prepping the outer stems so i could mark the mortice for fitting. both stems were cut with the ends 25mm shorter than the inner stems. in canoecraft it states "there will be a point at which the inside stem plus the plank ends is the same width as the outside stem <snip...

welp, i got the repairs done, at least in the segments between the tie downs. when i had a look today i noticed that the sheer line on one side seemed to overhang more than the other. when i looked under the hull, i noticed that in the middle, the keel line was about 6mm off centre. i loosened off a...

thickness seems to vary with the choice of timber and what it's to be used for. for western red 1/4 seems to be the standard. stronger, heaver timbers might be 3/16. standard width seems to be 3/4 but i've seen people post using wider strips for some sections and narrower strips where there is more ...

glen: umm, yeh

if you read up to the post on the 17th'ish you'll see what i'm using

welp, i did a couple of experiments. the first experiment was purely with ca. i was using the 3 formulations of hotstuff, because that was what was available from the wood tool shop. first i took some pieces of bead and cove strips and taped them together across what was going to the the back: http:...

hpd: since i knew early on that i'd need wood flour matching the hull materials (i had planned on going over the seam of every strip with thickened epoxy before fairing to fill any voids that could trap air when i glass), i had already run some paulownia and western red cedar in separate lots throug...

hpd: that thought had crossed my mind. i've used ca with ply and balsa and never noticed anything out of the ordinary. now that the hull is back on the moulds again i don't feel the need to rush. on the weekend i will get some hotstuff, grab some pieces of bead and cove and seep glue them together, ...

since glen said to post in the builders forum, i thought i'd start a new thread for this. hopefully it will help others. the story so far......due to a lack of available space elsewhere, my build takes place in the back yard. the strongback lived on a concrete slab on top of heavy duty polytarp whic...

well, first order of business is to make sure that it won't happen again during the repair, fairing and glassing stage. i used having a bare strongback as an opportunity to shorten the hight a bit. then i repositioned it, re-did the levelling process from side to side, and anchored the 4 corners. ht...

thanx patrick's dad and glen :) the photo's are only one part of the damage. on the side opposite the impact there is a split that runs the entire length of the hull and at one end up to the sheer line it's torn away from the inner stem. this one is fairly clean and i found i could put it back held ...

well, on monday, this is as far as i had gotten with my build: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/colective/Canoe%20Build/sheer-line_marked.jpg yesterday we had some serious gusts of wind, so strong that the hull/strongback which was covered, got blown over. this was the result: http://i2.photobuc...

that strip down the center to fill in the gap worked out well :applause some of the paulownia i'd been supplied with had similar tear out issues to the pictures of the aspen you showed. i put those to one side, but by the end if the stripping i got disparate for material and had to use it. i filled ...

and a hoppy nuke year to you too glen!

hopefully everyone's builds will go well and we see lots of craft hit the water this year

i'm heading into the final stages of stripping in my build. i'm using a staples system similar to the one used in the canoecraft book. i was using a 4in c clamp per station per side, so 26 clamps, plus a couple of irwin spring clamps got me most of the way up the stems. someone should start a canoe ...

ideally you'd want to have the epoxy cured before painting. it's pretty well much the same prep as you would use for varnish. originally i was planning to spray automotive clear coat on my hull, but the manufacturer of the epoxy system i'm using also make a variety of water based urathane marine pai...