Non-Bear Mountain Designs
NW Passage Solo
I'm in the middle of building NW Canoe's Passage Solo. This is my first stripper after building a Folboat about 30 years ago, a stitch and glue duck boat about ten years ago and a fiberglass covered foam duckboat a couple years back. I just took the canoe off the forms tonight and will start working the inside tomorrow. The canoe is 15’ long with a max beam of 30”. Quite a bit of tumblehome should make for easy paddling. I'm using 3/16" WRC strips and 4 oz glass, doubled on the bottom both inside and out. I'll be using ash for the seats and gunnels with cherry decks and scupper blocks.
Last edited by woodguy00 on Sat Mar 19, 2011 11:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
NW Passage Solo
My wife and I christened my Passage Solo today March 19th - I started cutting strips the day after Christmas. Final weight is 40 lbs on the dot with 3/8" outwales and 1/4" ash inwales offset with 1/4" cherry scupper blocks. Seats and thwarts are ash. I only paddled a few minutes until the rain started but it is pretty sweet.
Tim
Build photos are at: http://s1110.photobucket.com/albums/h450/woodguy00/
Tim
Build photos are at: http://s1110.photobucket.com/albums/h450/woodguy00/
- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs
Wow! She looks great! From Christmas Day to now is fabulous progress. I'm sure you will enjoy her for many years!
-
- Posts: 196
- Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:00 pm
Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs
It looks great, Tim. The build went fairly quick. I did my strips at the same time, and am just getting close to finishing the stripping.
-JIM-
- HighPlainsDrifter
- Posts: 77
- Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2011 9:30 pm
- Location: Brookings, SD USA
Launch of my NW Merlin (first build)
Hi
I have completed and launched my first cedar strip. This canoe is the Merlin solo design of Bruce Kunz (my plans were dated 1985).
Basics on the canoe are:
Western red cedar strips
White ash (sapwood) inwales, white ash (heartwood) outwales
Black walnut scupper blocks, decks, thwarts, carry handles and seat
Black ash outer stem, cedar inner stem
Systems III SilverTip Laminating Resin and 6 oz cloth
Z-Spar Flagship varnish
length: 15.5 feet
Max beam: 29.75 inches
ratio of length/3" water line beam = 6.8
finished weight= 42.5 pounds
I have completed and launched my first cedar strip. This canoe is the Merlin solo design of Bruce Kunz (my plans were dated 1985).
Basics on the canoe are:
Western red cedar strips
White ash (sapwood) inwales, white ash (heartwood) outwales
Black walnut scupper blocks, decks, thwarts, carry handles and seat
Black ash outer stem, cedar inner stem
Systems III SilverTip Laminating Resin and 6 oz cloth
Z-Spar Flagship varnish
length: 15.5 feet
Max beam: 29.75 inches
ratio of length/3" water line beam = 6.8
finished weight= 42.5 pounds
Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs
I know I'm over two years late. I'm just getting around to view these awesome canoes.
But even a late compliment has meaning !
Very nice builds guys ! I enjoyed the photos also !
Jim
But even a late compliment has meaning !
Very nice builds guys ! I enjoyed the photos also !
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Re: Catspaw Dinghy
Did you finish the catspaw dinghy? I would be very interested in your design details.sedges wrote:This is my latest project. Modified the plans for strip construction. Mahogany transom, yellow pine keelson and stem, spars will be spruce.
Thanks
Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs
Sorry to have no progress to report on the Catspaw Dinghy. It looks the same as in the photos from ten years ago. My building partner moved on, my job got interesting, my 90+ mom came into my care and I just covered the dinghy up to save her for future opportunities. I did refinish one of my old canoes, a prospector, that was 26 years old and it looks great and is ready to see me through my remaining days. The catspaw is on the agenda for this summer and maybe I'll make some progress.
The plans were from WoodenBoat magazine and hull plan was easy to modify for strip construction. A very nice book comes with the plans with instructions for many of the features like centerboard and trunk, rudder, mast etc. All of this takes more puzzling as there are no ribs in the strip model and things get attached differently.
I'll post more about if it ever gets moving again.
The plans were from WoodenBoat magazine and hull plan was easy to modify for strip construction. A very nice book comes with the plans with instructions for many of the features like centerboard and trunk, rudder, mast etc. All of this takes more puzzling as there are no ribs in the strip model and things get attached differently.
I'll post more about if it ever gets moving again.
Re: Kipawa 16' 6"
Okay, second attempt at this post, finished up the last one and got a site error and lost it all .... I didn't save a draft ... lesson learned.
When I decided I was going to build my own canoe(s), the plan was to purpose build at least 2, a solo, which I completed last year (Freedom Solo) and a tandem. I find when I build I always plan ahead, in fact the tandem model was selected before I even finished my first build.
What I decided on for my tandem was the Kipawa, a John Winter's design that is a favourite of the group I camp with, we have rented the Swift version for many years. ... as luck would have it, one of friends also decided to build a Kipawa as well. He has a friend with a C&C wood machine and some spare time, they programmed up the molds from the plans and made an extra copy for me, for the cost of the wood.
I am posting this build summary for 2 reasons, I didn't see a Kipawa posted anywhere here and to share some changes I made in how I put the puzzle pieces together ... seems there is very little that is truly new, but maybe some one will find the ideas useful.
Having the molds all predone was a bonus, having the waterline, centre line and mold numbers all engraved on the wood was like being spoiled.
The front molds were cut to all interlock, which made it a lot easier to align, the bow inner stem here has a small wood fracture, but it is on the part that gets carved away, so no big deal. At least the lines to guide wood removal are pretty straight.
Here the stripping is well under way, I am using the palletising tape (6" from Staples) as I did with my solo, changes here are 1) using the cam buckle straps to hold the strips to the molds (also standoff/guides to manage the straps) instead of the nylon cable ties and 2) to protect the cove, instead of using small pieces of 1/4" dowel, I am just using full size pieces, which is a lot easier and I think provides more even pressure.
]
I wanted to keep most of the stripping pretty clean for this build, just this very simple accent ... the stems, gunnels and decks is where it will get fancied a bit ....
]
Another change I made was how I used my clamps at the stems. I stole some of the wifes kitchen antislip material, used inside drawers and cupboards, as shown. It works really well and is a lot easier than wedges, bungee cords and the like.
I had used the plastic shrink wrap tape before, and it works really well, but I was looking for something a little less time consuming. After much daydreaming I bought some 3/16" bungee/shockcord to try and ended liking that better. This is six 12' pieces, each one fastened to one of the clamps holding the strip starter blocks at the bottom. To use, I just glue up the strip, place the dowel on top and then stretch and wrap the shock cord, finishing up with a simple clamp near the end of the cord.
Centre line is established, stripping is going really well, I am getting that "almost there" excitement building up ....
Other side is moving along very well, on the next boat, I will swap the bungee cord out for 3/16" latex tubing I think ... and yes, true to form, I have picked the next boat ...
These 2 shots really show one of the challenges with building staple-less ... the transition curves at the bow and stern require some thinking, but it worked really well IMO ....
Two strips away from closing .....
The gluing jig I used to set the curve etc for the last 2 strips to close the bottom ....
Tada .... it is closed ....maybe not a completely perfect fit ... does it ever fit perfect? Also, I am sure a couple folks were wondering in the earlier section "Did he just take the molds and not buy plans?" I did buy the plans, you can see them on the right hand side wall. I feel pretty strongly about supporting the designers.
After initial shaping , there were a few gaps that I just felt needed to be addressed. I masked off the areas, both to minimize the amount the epoxy spread and as a reminder to me to stay on the areas I had chosen and not fill everything in sight.
After a quick sand, it was time for the magic moment, the wet out and a glimpse of what the boat will actually look like ...
As is obvious in the last pics, it is cold here and winter is here in earnest now ... my goal was to get the boat ready for final sanding before I stopped, I did that and am pretty happy with the result. I will be picking this up again in the spring, hopefully with a functional boat sometime in the June/July time frame.
When I decided I was going to build my own canoe(s), the plan was to purpose build at least 2, a solo, which I completed last year (Freedom Solo) and a tandem. I find when I build I always plan ahead, in fact the tandem model was selected before I even finished my first build.
What I decided on for my tandem was the Kipawa, a John Winter's design that is a favourite of the group I camp with, we have rented the Swift version for many years. ... as luck would have it, one of friends also decided to build a Kipawa as well. He has a friend with a C&C wood machine and some spare time, they programmed up the molds from the plans and made an extra copy for me, for the cost of the wood.
I am posting this build summary for 2 reasons, I didn't see a Kipawa posted anywhere here and to share some changes I made in how I put the puzzle pieces together ... seems there is very little that is truly new, but maybe some one will find the ideas useful.
Having the molds all predone was a bonus, having the waterline, centre line and mold numbers all engraved on the wood was like being spoiled.
The front molds were cut to all interlock, which made it a lot easier to align, the bow inner stem here has a small wood fracture, but it is on the part that gets carved away, so no big deal. At least the lines to guide wood removal are pretty straight.
Here the stripping is well under way, I am using the palletising tape (6" from Staples) as I did with my solo, changes here are 1) using the cam buckle straps to hold the strips to the molds (also standoff/guides to manage the straps) instead of the nylon cable ties and 2) to protect the cove, instead of using small pieces of 1/4" dowel, I am just using full size pieces, which is a lot easier and I think provides more even pressure.
]
I wanted to keep most of the stripping pretty clean for this build, just this very simple accent ... the stems, gunnels and decks is where it will get fancied a bit ....
]
Another change I made was how I used my clamps at the stems. I stole some of the wifes kitchen antislip material, used inside drawers and cupboards, as shown. It works really well and is a lot easier than wedges, bungee cords and the like.
I had used the plastic shrink wrap tape before, and it works really well, but I was looking for something a little less time consuming. After much daydreaming I bought some 3/16" bungee/shockcord to try and ended liking that better. This is six 12' pieces, each one fastened to one of the clamps holding the strip starter blocks at the bottom. To use, I just glue up the strip, place the dowel on top and then stretch and wrap the shock cord, finishing up with a simple clamp near the end of the cord.
Centre line is established, stripping is going really well, I am getting that "almost there" excitement building up ....
Other side is moving along very well, on the next boat, I will swap the bungee cord out for 3/16" latex tubing I think ... and yes, true to form, I have picked the next boat ...
These 2 shots really show one of the challenges with building staple-less ... the transition curves at the bow and stern require some thinking, but it worked really well IMO ....
Two strips away from closing .....
The gluing jig I used to set the curve etc for the last 2 strips to close the bottom ....
Tada .... it is closed ....maybe not a completely perfect fit ... does it ever fit perfect? Also, I am sure a couple folks were wondering in the earlier section "Did he just take the molds and not buy plans?" I did buy the plans, you can see them on the right hand side wall. I feel pretty strongly about supporting the designers.
After initial shaping , there were a few gaps that I just felt needed to be addressed. I masked off the areas, both to minimize the amount the epoxy spread and as a reminder to me to stay on the areas I had chosen and not fill everything in sight.
After a quick sand, it was time for the magic moment, the wet out and a glimpse of what the boat will actually look like ...
As is obvious in the last pics, it is cold here and winter is here in earnest now ... my goal was to get the boat ready for final sanding before I stopped, I did that and am pretty happy with the result. I will be picking this up again in the spring, hopefully with a functional boat sometime in the June/July time frame.
Last edited by Cruiser on Sun Nov 18, 2018 10:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs
Nice job Brian !
I've got to hand it to you ! Putting together such a nice hull in such a small area !
I've been kicking around the stapleless thing, and I like your bungee cord method.
Another thing I thought about was going stapleless up to the bilge, and then go with staples.
Again nice hull !
Happy Holidays !
Jim
I've got to hand it to you ! Putting together such a nice hull in such a small area !
I've been kicking around the stapleless thing, and I like your bungee cord method.
Another thing I thought about was going stapleless up to the bilge, and then go with staples.
Again nice hull !
Happy Holidays !
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs
Oh and what is your next build going to be ?
Envious of your molds as well !
I'm at the point of starting another and I have a lot of choices.
A solo for sure.
Jim
Envious of your molds as well !
I'm at the point of starting another and I have a lot of choices.
A solo for sure.
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs
Hi Jim,
Next will be the Freedom 17 ... I am so happy with the Freedom Solo, that I will take the leap of faith that the Freedom tandem will be awesome as well ... thinking white cedar, I have a supplier for 20' lengths.
On this build I really tried to capture all the character of the wood, including knots. I think I will continue to do this, but one change I plan on making, is to stabilize the knots with epoxy prior to cutting the strips. I think this will allow capture of all the beauty of the various wood features, without the issue of drop outs and places I have to rework after stripping.
Brian
Next will be the Freedom 17 ... I am so happy with the Freedom Solo, that I will take the leap of faith that the Freedom tandem will be awesome as well ... thinking white cedar, I have a supplier for 20' lengths.
On this build I really tried to capture all the character of the wood, including knots. I think I will continue to do this, but one change I plan on making, is to stabilize the knots with epoxy prior to cutting the strips. I think this will allow capture of all the beauty of the various wood features, without the issue of drop outs and places I have to rework after stripping.
Brian
Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs
Project update:
Had a lot of projects this spring and got off to a slower start on the Kipawa than I would have preferred.
I got the final sanding done and completed the fiber glassing this last weekend. Very pleased with how the glassing went ... now the waiting on the curing phase, hopefully in 2 weeks I will get at the inside. Meantime I will start preparing the trim stuff (gunnels, thwarts, seats and decks).
Brian
Had a lot of projects this spring and got off to a slower start on the Kipawa than I would have preferred.
I got the final sanding done and completed the fiber glassing this last weekend. Very pleased with how the glassing went ... now the waiting on the curing phase, hopefully in 2 weeks I will get at the inside. Meantime I will start preparing the trim stuff (gunnels, thwarts, seats and decks).
Brian
Last edited by Cruiser on Sun Nov 18, 2018 10:28 am, edited 1 time in total.