It's a short clip, made short by a gust of wind.
This is how I do it.http://vid1272.photobucket.com/albums/y ... hnxiqk.mp4 Also a pic of my table set up also.
![Image](http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y390/JimDodd/IMG_0218_zpsznmot2aa.jpg)
Jim
Thanks Brian ! Great advise.Oregon Paddler wrote: ↑Fri Jun 05, 2020 1:43 pm Jim, I am new to this forum. I’m researching ideas before launching into building a canoe. I have limited space and equipment and am interested in using the skilsaw technique to rip my cedar planking. I get the part about clamping a fence to the saw to get a consistent thickness. My question is how did you keep the board you were cutting from secured? I have read on some forum somewhere that using this technique with care produced strips with enough accuracy that they did not require planning. Did you find this to be true?
Any advice or suggestions you have would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Correct ! Some will tell you this is unsafe.pfunkmke wrote: ↑Fri Jun 05, 2020 10:28 am Hi Jim,
New to the community doing a lot of browsing/research for first boat (built a few cedar strip soap box derby cars 30 years ago as a kid).
Question is this: I'm pretty sure of the answer but confirming/pointing out that if piece goes between bit and fence, feed is from opposite direction correct? Between bit and fence left to right, normal operation right to left.
Secondary question: both cove and bead this way will ensure all stock is same width, eliminating need to plane raw material?
Thanks in advance!