I'm getting ready to tackle the mounting of my outer stems. I will be using MAS epoxy with slow hardener.
I have used the stapleless method to build the canoe and sure would like to attach the stems without drilling holes and plugging with dowels later. That said, I am nervous that if I use some sort of webbing the stem will slide around like a greased pig. The radius of the outer stem is probably an inch different (flexed larger) than the bend of the inner stem since the inner stem is wrapped around the end form. They were all glued as a set originally and I think all is normal with the different radius.
Does anyone have any great suggestions? I am willing to do what is necessary in order to get the best outcome.
Thanks in advance.
Attaching outer stem
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
This may be a bit too late but here goes: I leave the inner stem hang down about 1" past the sheerline when the boat is being built on the strongback. I also make the outer stems 1" longer. When I install the outer stems, I use one screw to hold the outers to the inners in that 1" section. This will later be cut off. Then I use webbing straps to hold the rest of the outer stems in place. I drill a few holes through the stem mold near the strongback so I can feed the webbing through there. I place waxed paper between the stem and the webbing.
This method works for me.
This method works for me.
attaching stems
I'm with Glen.
I always leave the inner and outer stem about two inches long and start by first clamping the two together so the stem does not slide. Once that is in place, I use heavy bungies to pull the stem into place. If you wrap the bungies around the box beam, you don't have to worry about damaging your hull. Thickened epoxy between inner and outer stem will fill any very small gaps. Really not that hard to pull it into place.
Good luck.
I always leave the inner and outer stem about two inches long and start by first clamping the two together so the stem does not slide. Once that is in place, I use heavy bungies to pull the stem into place. If you wrap the bungies around the box beam, you don't have to worry about damaging your hull. Thickened epoxy between inner and outer stem will fill any very small gaps. Really not that hard to pull it into place.
Good luck.
- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
Our outer stem is a bit longer than needed but our strongback is a few inches longer than needed (and kind of in the way at times). We put the outer stems on our Redbird a couple weeks ago using only straps to hold them in place. We started at the keel end of the stems to ensure a tight fit at that end and worked our way toward the sheer. Just 4 straps was plenty to hold it in place. A wedge between the strong back and the outer stem kept the end of it in place til the epoxy set. Here's a picture of the straps in place:
![Image](http://img.groundspeak.com/cache/8c38bb6d-e907-4707-b33c-e356c8eea04e.jpg)
We didn't use wax paper to protect the straps. We were careful to not get epoxy on them but failed in a couple places. No harm....
After shaping the outer stem with a plane, spokeshave, a Michne-stick and sandpaper, it looked like this:
![Image](http://img.groundspeak.com/cache/00f38591-9d8d-469f-962a-87940c6d7f3c.jpg)
Now we need to shape the Bow outer stem...
![Image](http://img.groundspeak.com/cache/8c38bb6d-e907-4707-b33c-e356c8eea04e.jpg)
We didn't use wax paper to protect the straps. We were careful to not get epoxy on them but failed in a couple places. No harm....
After shaping the outer stem with a plane, spokeshave, a Michne-stick and sandpaper, it looked like this:
![Image](http://img.groundspeak.com/cache/00f38591-9d8d-469f-962a-87940c6d7f3c.jpg)
Now we need to shape the Bow outer stem...