Gunwale care / oiling at low temperatures?

Michel vd Hoven · Post by **Michel vd Hoven** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 2:53 am

I intend to do some re-oiling of my wooden gunwales, thwarts, yoke and decks. Temperature in my barn has dropped between 5-10 degrees Centigrade (=40-50 degrees Fahrenheit).

Is it still possible to oil my gunwales and other woodworks at these temperature, or should I wait for next spring.

I intend to use Voyageur Gunwale Guard for this job. The can doesn't say anything about tempertures.

Any suggestions?

Michel, The Netherlands

Erik, Belgium · Post by **Erik, Belgium** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 3:35 am

(dutch) hallo Michel,
geen probleem om je gunnels bij lage temperatuur te olieën. Let er even op dat je voor af alles lichtjes opschuurt, breng vervolgens de eerste laag rijkelijk aan. Laat die even intrekken, en neem daarna fijn water-resistent schuurpapier (400 grid is in orde) en maak dezelfde bewegingen als wanneer je een auto zou polieren. Regelmatig het schuurpapier in oliën. Je zult merken dat de olie echt een brij wordt, geen zorg. Lang genoeg (5 minuten) polieren met het schuurpapier en de olie. Neem een schone oude handdoek (of een katoenen vod) en veeg met krachtige bewegingen de gunwale op. en je zult versteld staan van het glanzend oppervlak !

(english) hi Michel,
no problem to oil your gunnels in colder temps. Sand lightly prior to applying the first layer of oil. Wait a while, and then start to polish the surface with water resistant sanding paper (400 grid wil do). Polish like you would do on your car. Regularly add a little oil on the sanding paper. Polish long enough (5 min). Now take an old clean towel (or cotton rag) and wipe the surface smooth with powerful rubs. You 'll be surprised of the shiny surface !

Erik, Belgium.

Doug · Post by **Doug** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 6:08 am

Greetings,

I have, in the past sealed my (ash) gunnels with epoxy and then varnish.
What do you like about oiling them?
Do you oil any other part of your canoe?
What kind of oil are you useing?

Thanks,
Doug

Michel vd Hoven · Post by **Michel vd Hoven** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 10:04 am

Doug,

I like to re-apply oil on my gunwales because my Kevlar canoe already had oiled gunwales. I need to re-oil, and like the looks and feel of the oiled trim very much.

For my strip-canoe which I intend to build next spring I also plan to oil gunwales and trim. Because I like the looks of oiled wood rather than epoxy/varnished. A nice and shinning varnished hull will make a nice contrast with the oiled gunwales. Oil will give you the pure and natural feel of wood.. the "soft touch"... epoxy/varnish will make the gunnels look more "artifical"... Matter of tast. Also oil is less permanent. Epoxy/varnish will make hull and trim to one piece. If I would like to remove gunwales, decks or other trim, this would require more work.

I use Voyageur Gunwale Guard, in a walnut stained colour.
Many people use Tung oil, or Danisch oil, Watco oil, linseed (boiled/raw) and other oils or mixtures of various types. I don't know much about them.. so I purchased a can of the Voyageur product
http://www.voyageur-gear.com

... it's common practise for strip-builders to epoxy/varnish the gunwales/trim... on the other hand it's common practice for factory canoes to have oiled gunwales/trim...

Greeting,

Michel, The Netherlands

Todd Bradshaw · Post by **Todd Bradshaw** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:44 am

Gunwale Guard is most likely Watco Oil packaged with a different label for Mad River Canoe Company (they bought the Voyageur company a few years ago). Mad River has a long history with Watco. As long as you oil frequently, especially when the boat is new and you're still building up a good base coat (which takes a while) it makes a beautiful gunstock-like, durable finish that's also pretty easy to repair if you ever get any scratches in it. It looks much less plastic than epoxy-coated wood. Maintaining the oil is the key though. If you let it go the gunwales will literally rot off of the boat, especially if they're ash. When properly maintained you will eventually end up with beautiful wood which will require less frequent re-oiling. There simply isn't enough of a market for canoe gunwale oil to bother doing much research and development for custom products and Watco works really well, so I'm pretty sure they're just relabeling it for use on canoes.

JimND · Post by **JimND** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:56 am

There is a technical/practical reason for oiling gunwales instead of epoxying and varnishing them. Most gunwales are constructed of hardwoods, most of which are susceptible to mold infestation, especially ash. Because the gunwales are not protected with fiberglass like the hull but it still subjected to lots of strikes from objects like paddles, coolers, and the ground, it is usually only a matter of time before the gunwale is dinged to the point of denting/cracking the epoxy. This crack provides an entry point for moisture but does not provide enough ventilation for subsequent drying, hence trapping the moisture in the wood and mold can set in.

The theory behind oiling is that if a boater keeps them properly maintained with refreshing coats of oil, they will maintain a fairly good barrier against moisture. Even if they do absorb some moisture, the moisture is fairly quickly evaporated back into the atmosphere as soon as the gunwale is removed from the moisture source.

Both methods require maintenance and attention by the owner, so it may be more of a personal preference issue. However, it is telling that many canoe manufacturers choose oiling over epoxy.

Rick · Post by **Rick** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 1:27 pm

...it is usually only a matter of time before the gunwale is dinged to the point of denting/cracking the epoxy. This crack provides an entry point for moisture but does not provide enough ventilation for subsequent drying, hence trapping the moisture in the wood and mold can set in.

It's true that wood will absorb some water this way, but the water will evaporate out the same way it got in, if the air is dry. My main concern with rot is when the canoe's kept in damp conditions for a long time, and the water that enters won't evaporate out in time - this happens if the canoe's kept upside down on the ground and the dampness there won't allow quick drying. My $0.02, anyway.

Doug · Post by **Doug** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 2:50 pm

Sh#* wish I would have oiled now.

Thanks,
Doug

Post by **Patricks Dad** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 3:15 pm

Doesn't oiling imply that you don't epoxy the gunwales on but scew them on insead?

I really like the looks of an oil fisnish but have been toying with the idea of having NO metal on our canoe (only epoxy to hold gunwales, seats, etc. in place).

The only exception would be putting this coin on the deck (some of you Canadian guys will recognize it):

Doug · Post by **Doug** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 4:01 pm

Cool idea with the coin! Add yes I remember the coin, ...got a couple.

? heard that oil may degrade the bond between the epoxy or glue with the wood?
And that, that is the reason laminated / glued paddles are varnished and not oiled.
But I like the look, feel and maintenance of oil.

All the best,
Doug

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 4:20 pm

If this is true, then any stripper with oiled and screwed on gunwales would cause the sheerline glass to delaminate IMHO.

The laminated paddles you mention were assembled using what kind of glue?

Todd Bradshaw · Post by **Todd Bradshaw** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 5:31 pm

Personally, I'd attach my gunwales with duct tape and clothes pins long before I'd ever epoxy them to a canoe. Gunwales are long skinny pieces of wood which most likely have some grain run-out and may well have some spots which are substantially weaker and/or more brittle than others. They're also in a location that tends to get a lot of weather, abrasion and maybe even impact. Certain portions of them are under a fair amount of tension, being forced into a curve. I've had to deal with too many gunwale repairs or replacements over the years or situations where we wanted to modify the seat or thwart placements, deck structure, etc., both on strippers and other canoes, to ever feel good about glueing gunwales to a perfectly good hull. I also can't stand the plastic look of epoxy-coated trim, which is noticably different from either oiled or just varnished wood, so I use bronze screws and either oil or varnish on gunwales. I don't find them any less "noble" than a boat made with no metal fasteners but lots of 21st Century resin instead.

Post by **Patricks Dad** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 7:52 pm

Todd, Good advice on maintenance aspects of epoxy'd gunwales. Hadn't thought of those.

thanks

Don't understand the nobility comment, but duct tape and clothespins would be novel...

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 8:21 pm

I'm planning on leaving my sheer line just a bit strong, then shaving it down to match the gunnels. If I oil the gunnels, the oil that gets into the top edge of the hull could cause a problem with the fiberglass and epoxy delaminating from the hull?
If that's true, it seems to me that there are an awful lot of canoes with problems out there.

Doug · Post by **Doug** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 9:43 pm

I have only ever used (West) epoxy when laminating paddles, I've oil and vanished several paddles with no problem.

Then I read that there "may" be a problem, http://www.myccr.com/SectionForums/view ... hp?t=10966
If it is true and I have never found it to be true, then it would be an excuss to make another paddle. (And that would be good)

So I get the impression that epoxy on the gunnel is over kill, for attachment.
Because I do like the look, feel and maintenace of oil over an epoxy finnish.

Doug