Non-Bear Mountain Designs
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
Non-Bear Mountain Designs
If you are building a boat that is not a Bear Mountain Design you can post specific information here. Use POST REPLY when posting information. Please stay on topic. For general boatbuilding discussions, please use the Builders Forum instead.
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
Custom Design
Posted by Andy Meyer.
My first foray into boat building (besides the couple of models when I was a kid)
I've got an engineering background a bit of programming experience so I wrote a piece of software to design my own hull... Started with offsets from a few designs I liked and integrated what I liked and modified what I didn't. Drew up my own station molds and with the help of "Canoecraft", am well on my way to what should be a nice boat, but, final proof is still many hours of woodworking away.
The rest of the project is in the webpage... http://www.mil-amax.com/ameyer/canoe
I'd like to hear any comments or thoughts.
Andy
My first foray into boat building (besides the couple of models when I was a kid)
I've got an engineering background a bit of programming experience so I wrote a piece of software to design my own hull... Started with offsets from a few designs I liked and integrated what I liked and modified what I didn't. Drew up my own station molds and with the help of "Canoecraft", am well on my way to what should be a nice boat, but, final proof is still many hours of woodworking away.
The rest of the project is in the webpage... http://www.mil-amax.com/ameyer/canoe
I'd like to hear any comments or thoughts.
Andy
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
Custom Design
Posted by Dean in Eureka, Ca.
Andy,
That is one awesome looking boat!
What really intrigues me is that you have held off cutting the sheerline up to this point.
Are you going to cut your sheerline after you glass the hull?
Any plans on doing anything with the software?
Andy,
That is one awesome looking boat!
What really intrigues me is that you have held off cutting the sheerline up to this point.
Are you going to cut your sheerline after you glass the hull?
Any plans on doing anything with the software?
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
Sheerline
Posted by Andy Meyer.
I thought about cutting it (the sheerline) tonight as I have the canoe upright, and the sheerline marked. I think I am going to wait until the inside is glassed, as my experience with glass, the edge of a surface is always tough to get it to lay down flat. I always seem to get a bit of a bubble if I try to run the glass off the end of a surface.
The outwales (spruce) will be rabbeted to sit over the top of the sheerline and screwed to the scuppers and inwale. The outwale will then have a mahogany strip laid down the full length of the boat as a cap on the outwale. This way it covers the screw heads.
In addition, because the outwale and inwale will sit 1/4" above the strips, you won't see the inner or outer stems from above. I plan on making scuppers from the same spruce, and the inwale from mahogany. Any thoughts on this? How do you get a round edge on the scuppers to fair into the inwale?
And, the software... Hmmm.... It's written in c++ under linux, witha graphical interface. I could statically link it so it runs under linux / X, but not M$windows. It still has quite a bit of perfecting to go to make it truely flexible. I was editting code the same day I was outputing my final set of offsets. If there was interest and motivation, I might consider making it a more flexible tool that can do automatic curve fairing, etc... to allow one to truely optimize a design. It could be adapted to calculate displacement, stability factors, section coefficients, prismatic coeff. etc... But, this would take time. Thoughts?
I thought about cutting it (the sheerline) tonight as I have the canoe upright, and the sheerline marked. I think I am going to wait until the inside is glassed, as my experience with glass, the edge of a surface is always tough to get it to lay down flat. I always seem to get a bit of a bubble if I try to run the glass off the end of a surface.
The outwales (spruce) will be rabbeted to sit over the top of the sheerline and screwed to the scuppers and inwale. The outwale will then have a mahogany strip laid down the full length of the boat as a cap on the outwale. This way it covers the screw heads.
In addition, because the outwale and inwale will sit 1/4" above the strips, you won't see the inner or outer stems from above. I plan on making scuppers from the same spruce, and the inwale from mahogany. Any thoughts on this? How do you get a round edge on the scuppers to fair into the inwale?
And, the software... Hmmm.... It's written in c++ under linux, witha graphical interface. I could statically link it so it runs under linux / X, but not M$windows. It still has quite a bit of perfecting to go to make it truely flexible. I was editting code the same day I was outputing my final set of offsets. If there was interest and motivation, I might consider making it a more flexible tool that can do automatic curve fairing, etc... to allow one to truely optimize a design. It could be adapted to calculate displacement, stability factors, section coefficients, prismatic coeff. etc... But, this would take time. Thoughts?
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
Winisk
Posted by Erik, Belgium.
The Winisk, a 2 seater Canoe, design by John Winters, laminated version sold by Swift canoes; a modern canoe shape. See more on http://www.greenval.com/winisk.html.
I have been a paddler for 30 years now, started when I was 13 years old.
This is the second cedar strip boat I'm making. More info see on http://users.pandora.be/kano-kayak/Winisk-1.htm
The other one is a solo canoe, type "38Special", designed by Bruce Kunz and plans sold by NorthWest Canoe.
Most of the other cedar strip builders love woodworking, start building a boat and then start paddling; not me. That's why I having a real hard time selecting a model to build.
Next I will build a cedar strip kayak, type Outer Island, designed and sold by Jay Babina, paddler.
Another boat on my wishlist is the Isfjord, a swedish design by Björn Thomasson, see http://www.thomassondesign.com/doc/isfjord.php and the Hunter, see http://www.thomassondesign.com/doc/hunter.php
Regards, Erik.
The Winisk, a 2 seater Canoe, design by John Winters, laminated version sold by Swift canoes; a modern canoe shape. See more on http://www.greenval.com/winisk.html.
I have been a paddler for 30 years now, started when I was 13 years old.
This is the second cedar strip boat I'm making. More info see on http://users.pandora.be/kano-kayak/Winisk-1.htm
The other one is a solo canoe, type "38Special", designed by Bruce Kunz and plans sold by NorthWest Canoe.
Most of the other cedar strip builders love woodworking, start building a boat and then start paddling; not me. That's why I having a real hard time selecting a model to build.
Next I will build a cedar strip kayak, type Outer Island, designed and sold by Jay Babina, paddler.
Another boat on my wishlist is the Isfjord, a swedish design by Björn Thomasson, see http://www.thomassondesign.com/doc/isfjord.php and the Hunter, see http://www.thomassondesign.com/doc/hunter.php
Regards, Erik.
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
Wee Lassie
Posted by DaveH_Wis.
I was simply surfing the web last summer and I came across a website about building a wood strip canoe, Sam Buchanan's Wee Lassie Project. I felt that this was a project that I'd like to do and I ordered Mac Macarthey's and Gil Gilpatricks book. I would have liked to build a bigger canoe, but I did't think that I could get it out of my basement workshop. I eventually discover Chis Glad's Freedom17 and most importantly, John Michne's website. I learned a great deal from his Builders Corner. I was about 1/3 of the way through when I discover this site. I look at the post's every day. I really missed it when it was down. I appreciate all of the tips and different points of view's expressed here. I also wish that I had purchased Canoecraft earlier too. Anyway, here's a link to my project, you all have been a part of it. I'm starting a Freedom 17 this past week and I hope to build an Adirondack guide boat as soon as John Michne gets his book published.
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/daveha ... e7&.src=ph
I was simply surfing the web last summer and I came across a website about building a wood strip canoe, Sam Buchanan's Wee Lassie Project. I felt that this was a project that I'd like to do and I ordered Mac Macarthey's and Gil Gilpatricks book. I would have liked to build a bigger canoe, but I did't think that I could get it out of my basement workshop. I eventually discover Chis Glad's Freedom17 and most importantly, John Michne's website. I learned a great deal from his Builders Corner. I was about 1/3 of the way through when I discover this site. I look at the post's every day. I really missed it when it was down. I appreciate all of the tips and different points of view's expressed here. I also wish that I had purchased Canoecraft earlier too. Anyway, here's a link to my project, you all have been a part of it. I'm starting a Freedom 17 this past week and I hope to build an Adirondack guide boat as soon as John Michne gets his book published.
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/daveha ... e7&.src=ph
- Randall in HNL
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 5:47 pm
22 Foot Hawaiian Outrigger
Edit: Launched! November, 2006. See new pictures on website!
I have built a 22 foot Hawaiian outrigger sailing canoe ('Kolea') using strip construction. Thanks to Ted Moore for the great book!
http://www.dashflash.com/kolea/index.html
I have built a 22 foot Hawaiian outrigger sailing canoe ('Kolea') using strip construction. Thanks to Ted Moore for the great book!
http://www.dashflash.com/kolea/index.html
Last edited by Randall in HNL on Thu Dec 14, 2006 3:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
18.5' White Guide Canoe
My friend Brian and I are building an 18.5' White Guide based on the plans in Gil Gilpatrick's book. It is going slow but we started a web journal that is very rough and we will hopefully update and make pretty... here it is http://home.comcast.net/~xamirb/canoe.html
We have updated the design a bit after reading canoecraft through a few times. We added stems because that seemed like a real good idea. Hopefully it will start coming together soon.
Aaron
We have updated the design a bit after reading canoecraft through a few times. We added stems because that seemed like a real good idea. Hopefully it will start coming together soon.
Aaron
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- Posts: 415
- Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2004 12:04 pm
- Location: Butte, MT
20 foot White Guide underway
Well all, I'm going over the deep end, stripping a twenty foot boat alone. It's a little bit of a challenge and has required a few little tricks to try and manage the 23 foot long strips. I had my dad help me with the gang ripping, planing and routing. Now I'm on my own and am fretting the glassing a bit. I'll just have to mix small and work fast, I guess.
Here is a link to some pictures of the project so far:
http://photobucket.com/albums/y258/canoeblderinmt/
Greg
Here is a link to some pictures of the project so far:
http://photobucket.com/albums/y258/canoeblderinmt/
Greg
- Juneaudave
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 12:42 pm
- Location: Juneau, Alaska
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2004 12:04 pm
- Location: Butte, MT
Thanks, Dave
I'm very excited about this canoe. Having lost my cherry on the 18.5 footer and had a couple of years (has it been that long?) reading all the great tips here I'm confident I can build a nice boat this time out. I'm half way done stripping as of tonite! This fishing line method is FAST! Here are more pics of my progress: http://photobucket.com/albums/y258/canoeblderinmt/
I should be done stripping in about 3 more sessions. Epoxy and 6 oz cloth are on their way from Raka. It should be interesting as the girth is 60". I read about somebody taping their cloth in place and I'll borrow that idea for the full sized pieces.
Greg
I should be done stripping in about 3 more sessions. Epoxy and 6 oz cloth are on their way from Raka. It should be interesting as the girth is 60". I read about somebody taping their cloth in place and I'll borrow that idea for the full sized pieces.
Greg
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2005 10:24 pm
- Location: Lancaster, CA
My first project - an 18.5' White Guide.
Hello group,
What a wonderful forum this is. I am new to this boat building passion and have monitored this site for a few weeks. Anyway, after dreaming about a project for a couple of years I am taking by first baby steps into my first project. I purchased Gilpatrick's book and promptly made the station molds for the 18.5' White Guide model. Shortly thereafter I ordered and received Canoecraft. I wish I had gotten it first, but Gilpatrick's book is very good, and since I am a novice it seems like a good place to "get my feet wet"...pun intended. Plus I was already invested in the wood for the molds. After reading Canoecraft, however, I will incorporate some of the techniques I read about while building my White Guide. For instance, I like the look created by not stripping to the shear line. Has anyone built the guide in this manner? If I do this how do I deal with the bead on the first plank? Do I just install my gunnels below the bead and plane it off? I am also conflicted about a stem pieces. I like the idea but wonder if anyone has modified the design to incorporate stems. I also have a question about spacing of the stem molds from the end stations (Gilpatrick labels the stations 1 & 11). The book is not real clear if the stem molds get screwed to the end stations or if I need to space them out somewhat to achieve the correct overall length.
Anyway, I will be progressing on this project slowly. I became a new dad a year ago and have another on the way in November. This will keep me busy, but the thought of paddeling on one of our beautiful California lakes with the family will keep me motivated to get it done. Please forgive this long posting, but my enthusiasm is pouring out through the keyboard. Thanks in advance for your input.
Henry
:eyebrows
What a wonderful forum this is. I am new to this boat building passion and have monitored this site for a few weeks. Anyway, after dreaming about a project for a couple of years I am taking by first baby steps into my first project. I purchased Gilpatrick's book and promptly made the station molds for the 18.5' White Guide model. Shortly thereafter I ordered and received Canoecraft. I wish I had gotten it first, but Gilpatrick's book is very good, and since I am a novice it seems like a good place to "get my feet wet"...pun intended. Plus I was already invested in the wood for the molds. After reading Canoecraft, however, I will incorporate some of the techniques I read about while building my White Guide. For instance, I like the look created by not stripping to the shear line. Has anyone built the guide in this manner? If I do this how do I deal with the bead on the first plank? Do I just install my gunnels below the bead and plane it off? I am also conflicted about a stem pieces. I like the idea but wonder if anyone has modified the design to incorporate stems. I also have a question about spacing of the stem molds from the end stations (Gilpatrick labels the stations 1 & 11). The book is not real clear if the stem molds get screwed to the end stations or if I need to space them out somewhat to achieve the correct overall length.
Anyway, I will be progressing on this project slowly. I became a new dad a year ago and have another on the way in November. This will keep me busy, but the thought of paddeling on one of our beautiful California lakes with the family will keep me motivated to get it done. Please forgive this long posting, but my enthusiasm is pouring out through the keyboard. Thanks in advance for your input.
Henry
:eyebrows
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
Hi Henry, welcome aboard. I don't have Gilpatrick's book but it just seems logical to attach the stem forms to the nearest station forms to solidfy them.
As for the sheer strips, you just have to plane off the bead after installing the inwales. You can place them a little higher than the sheerline to compensate for what you will be removing but we are only talking about 1/8" so it's no big deal.
I just had a quick look at the website of one of our members and there are some photos that might help you with you 18.5' White Guide: http://home.comcast.net/~xamirb/canoe.html
As for the sheer strips, you just have to plane off the bead after installing the inwales. You can place them a little higher than the sheerline to compensate for what you will be removing but we are only talking about 1/8" so it's no big deal.
I just had a quick look at the website of one of our members and there are some photos that might help you with you 18.5' White Guide: http://home.comcast.net/~xamirb/canoe.html
guide canoe
It has been over a decade since I built this canoe via Gilpatrick plans. I remember that when the molds were set up as specified the hull was not fair in the ends. I ended up stretching it out a bit to get rid of a bump. My canoe ended up 18' 10".
Your first strip should be at the sheer at the center mold and following the sheer maybe two molds out and then allowed to run out naturally to the stem. This will make the twists and turns at the turn of the bilge easier.
Beaded strips should be placed at sheer marking so that the bead is beyond the mark. You will plane that off after the gunnels are set.
Your first strip should be at the sheer at the center mold and following the sheer maybe two molds out and then allowed to run out naturally to the stem. This will make the twists and turns at the turn of the bilge easier.
Beaded strips should be placed at sheer marking so that the bead is beyond the mark. You will plane that off after the gunnels are set.