Uneven epoxy on glass

[Peter Kotowych]

Howdy,

My son and I have just finished applying the first coat of epoxy.
I used a brush and squeegee. The brush work seemed fine, but I had difficulty in getting the epoxy even with the squeegee. There are sections where the epoxy is shiny and obviously thicker than other areas.

What is the best way to even this out? Should I try a roller for the second coat?

Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Penetang Pete

[Glen Smith]

For the second coat I usually pour the epoxy directly onto the hull and spread it around with the squeegee then clean up the excess using the squeegee. For the third coat I use a brush and put it on fairly thick but I don't squeegee it.

[Doug in Hamilton]

I use a card scrapper to level the runs and high spots. It is easier than sanding, and cost nothing compared to sandpaper. The runs you have left from the squeegee will be easier to get at and there is less likely chance of sanding through to the glass.
(http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking ... brush.

[Peter Kotowych]

Hello Doug,

Thanks for the input.
I have to ask, though, what is a 'card scrapper'.
I am new at this.

Thanks again
Penetang Pete

[Glen Smith]

Hi Pete, a "card scrapper" is probably what we call a "cabinet scraper" like this:
Link to shown article: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp? ... ncy=1&SID=

[Peter Kotowych]

Thanks Glen,

The picture speaks volumes (or scrapes) to this rookie.


Pete

[Erich Eppert]

Don't sweat the little stuff. Thick epoxy on a hull will be sanded smooth before you varnish anyways. Really low spots are more important to fix than high spots. Just lightly sand the low area and add more epoxy. A epoxy foam roller does a nice job. Usually you put on three coats of epoxy and sand flat with 120 grit untill the surface is flat or you see the top of the weave. Add two more coats to fill in any areas that may require some built up. Sand the last two coats with 180 or 220 grit for the final application fo varnish. This should give you a uniform dull and flat finish. The inside of any canoe or kayak is left with three coats and lightly sanded before varnishing. I use brush and squeegy for the first coat and roll on the second and third with a epoxy foam roller.

Another method of removing epoxy is to use 3/4 inch OLFA knife blades. I remove large amounts of green epoxy (less than 20 hours old) with these. Runs and sags can be removed after the epoxy is hard with very little difficulty. Hold them so the perforations face you and you can lightly bend them to scrape a fine area or just remove large amounts.The blade does get hot and leather gloves are a good safety device to use. There is enough heat generated with scaping to melt the epoxy onto the cutting edge. When the blade gets dull just throw it away. I have used cabinet scapers but find they will clog and dull very quickly.

When doing a expedition lay up I remove the edges of the glass with this method. The ragged ends are pushed up to the edge with a brush and left there. It looks lumpy but will clean up better than leaving them flat on the hull. I remove the ragged edge with 40 grit paper on a sanding block and smooth the rest with the blade. Works great. It is also great for sags and runs in epoxy and varnish finishes. Just make sure the varnish is hard before using the blade.

There so many different ways do things, don't be afraid to experiment. Any boo boos can be repaired with no evidence what so ever to be seen. It is a learning proccess after all.

Regards. Erich.

Her is a link to Olfa. These are the blades I use.

http://www.olfa.com/Products.asp?C=7&P=19

[Peter Kotowych]

Hi Erich,

Thanks for the info. As you say it is a learning curve. With the expertise provided by yourself, Glen and others, not only myself, but I am sure many others, are picking up valuable information and ideas. Also this whole thing is a little daunting, so you are providing us with the encouragement to forge on.
Many thanks

Pete